Turntable Leveling, Again


I may have asked this here before, but...I'm in the proces of moving my music room and am having a HUGE amount of trouble getting my Technics SL-1800 level. I have it on a homemade wall shelf constructed of pine and metal braces. The shelf is as level as I can get it. The strange thing is, using a cheap see-it-both-planes level from Lowe's, at the center of the platter I'm way out, but if I move the level to the edges I'm in. This would mean to me that my platter's not flat...is that the case with the SL-1800, or do I have a big problem? I have another turntable sitting beside it I use for 78s, and it leveled up in about a minute, so I'm not sure what part of this is throwing me off. I have a circular level as well; would I be happier (and less frustrated) with a metal torpedo level, do you think?

Much appreciated,

John Sellards
vanmeter
While it is important that the turntable be level, how level it has to be depends on what kind of table and arm and what some poeple consider perfectly level.
First off, the most important reason a turntable should be level has to do with the balance of the arm. If the arm is not level, the balances will change slightly, and the less out of level it is, the less it is affected. It is also important the arm be level in relation to the platter, so the alignment does not change according to where on the record it is, and it is important that on a table with a suspension, that it not lean one way or the other so as to change the behavior of the suspension.
Not being totally familiar with the sl-1800 you are having problems with, I will offer this, it could be that dependind on what type of suspension it has, where you place the level could be having an effect on the turntable because of the weight of the level, or you could be getting different readings because the platter or mat is cupped, which some are to better support the record, or your level is not accurate, which is confusing you.
Being a carpenter, I will point out that almost all levels made today are not true. Proper leveling technique is to get the same reading when you flip the level 180 degrees, then you eliminate all variables. In other words, If the bubble is dead center and then you flip the level end to end, and it is not also dead center, your level is out. If the bubble reads slightly to the left, when you flip the level end to end it should read slightly to the right the same amount. That is how to level using a level that is off, and also how to check if a level is accurate before you buy it. It is not really nessessary to have a level that is totally accurate, but one that is easy to read.
I should think that the sl-1800 does not have a separate suspension separating the platter and arm from the table? How springy are the feet? If you are fairly confident that it is stiff enough to not change level by placing a level on it, I would say leveling the table itself is going to be close enough.
Hope this helps.
Two levels are alot easier to use for a four point set-up. Front/back,left/right. "Starrett" machinist levels(4")are very accurate & can be had cheap used.
Just seconding the wise above and even my own that levels are accurate only to their rating.
Aceto, a bulls-eye balance looks like a clear circle with a bubble at the top, and a small marked circle at the top, in which the bubble should be positioned for true level. Makes leveling much easier and more accurate, than having to continually move a linear level! They are very small, too; mine has a base with a 1-1/2 inch diameter, which makes it handy for fitting into tight spaces as well. Just remember, that the bubble move toward the high position