Lewm, thx that's great info.
Turntable speed accuracy
There is another thread (about the NVS table) which has a subordinate discussion about turntable speed accuracy and different methods of checking. Some suggest using the Timeline laser, others use a strobe disk.
I assume everyone agrees that speed accuracy is of utmost importance. What is the best way to verify results? What is the most speed-accurate drive method? And is speed accuracy really the most important consideration for proper turntable design or are there some compromises with certain drive types that make others still viable?
I assume everyone agrees that speed accuracy is of utmost importance. What is the best way to verify results? What is the most speed-accurate drive method? And is speed accuracy really the most important consideration for proper turntable design or are there some compromises with certain drive types that make others still viable?
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One more thing. I realized whilst taking my evening stroll that I had misrepresented the Lenco. I alone have set up mine so that the speed adjustment is so tedious. On a stock Lenco, there is an external lever that allows you to select 16, 33, 45m or 78 rpm without ever removing the platter, once you have manually set the idler wheel in relation to the motor shaft. So, possibly the guy who told you that the speed was not spot on was using a stock Lenco L75 and was not hip to the fact that a small speed error can be easily corrected with a little DIY effort. I believed that firmly and permanently anchoring the distal end of the idler arm was preferable to using the external adjustment mechanism, wherein the pivot of the idler arm rides on a rail across the motor drive shaft, as you select speed. |
Lewm: " I believed that firmly and permanently anchoring the distal end of the idler arm was preferable to using the external adjustment mechanism, wherein the pivot of the idler arm rides on a rail across the motor drive shaft, as you select speed."I agree. All Lenco tables in stock form have speed issue. Not the fault of the motor, idler wheeel, nor the design. It is in the sliding mechanism that holds the idler arm that is always loose. You can hold it and feel it with your fingers and it's loose and it is this looseness in holding down the idler arm that's preventing the speed to be spot on. You can lock it down of course but then you lose the speed adjustability, hence the PTP approach but adjusting speed would be, indeed, a pain in the arse. Only by keep the opposite end of the idler wheel solidly in place will the speed be stable. It's a very mechanical turntable and if the idler wheel is allowed to move even microscopically on the tapered pulley the speed will change. I have several stock Lencos and they all have the same issue. It's no wonder some diyers made a micrometer to slide the idler arm in keeping in position and having the adjustment ability. Part number 14 is the culprit. _______ |
Dev, I hope I did not discourage you to pursue the Lenco. It's a great sounding turntable although I never had the time nor effort to set it up properly but I have friends who got good results from adding a little elbow grease. For an idler design, it is very quiet, thanks to the brilliant simplicity, its quality core components: motor, bearing, and platter. Its idler wheel is also the thinnest and lightest among idler-drive designs and that might partly contribute to its silent running. The idler wheel is also quite stiff and low compliant compare to Garrard, Thorens, Rek-o-kut, etc... and consequently, I believe, less "meaty" sounding, which can be a plus to some people. Admittedly, I quite like that beefy tone on idler tables with thick fat wheels but they are also harder to tame the noise, especially if they use a huge fast running motor, eg, that monstrous Ashland motor in the ROK or McCurdy or Russco. To me the Garrard definitely has a juicier tone than the Lenco but it's not as quiet. Lenco is also, I believe, easier to obtain correct stable speed. My experience is that the thickness, compliance, and among of rubber of the wheel correlate with the tone and tonal balance. (Let's not get into the audio political correctness of neutral game, "my table is more Neutral than your table" pissing contest. I cringed whenever audio reviewer using that term. I equate "neutral" with neutered.) I still marvel at the enormous bass dynamic and heft of a McCurdy idler table with a huge motor...but, alas, it was really noisy--good luck taming that beast! Anyway, if the noise issue is taken care of, idler tables are great musical machines and can get quite addictive with its ballsy tone... other tables (like some Scottish sacred cow) might sound wimpy as the musicians are playing with one testicle missing. If the table pass the Timeline test, would that be balls to wall? :-) Sigh, so many toys so little time... _____ |
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