Upgrade Superscoutmaster or Buy Classic 3?

My suggestion would be to first do the platter. After the platter is complete, then the rim drive since you won't have to fiddle around with the rim drive set-up more than once (it's not really much of a pain, but still...). Then do the new arm.

IMO, the platter will make the most difference.

There are some mounting options to consider with the rim drive. Review all the information you can get your hands on. You may want to consider mounting the rim drive on a "slider" so that it's easier to engage / disengage with the correct pressure against the platter. (Hint: look at the construction of drawers and sliding kitchen shelves.)

If the new platter comes with an entire bearing ass'y, let me know. I might be able to help you get rid of that old platter / bearing assembly.

I too have a rim drive Superscout/Classic table and will tell you that the upgrade from a 9 inch arm to a 10.5 is hardly worth the trouble. Dump those feet and get Bearpaws for a truly upgraded sound. You must have the motor assembly able to move on soft feet, and the turntable itself to be rock solid to the supporting table so that any inconsistency in the drive wheel or rubber belt will not transfer itself onto the table and make the arm wobble.

Stringreen,
Did you actually go from the 9 inch arm to the 10.5 arm and not find any difference? Were you referring to the older 10.5 discontinued arm or the new classic 3 arm in your comparrison?

Thanks

The 10.5i tonearm with adjustable VTA tower is well worth the investment to really fine tune the system. You can really hear the difference in adjusting SRA. I would do the 10.5i tonearm after the rimdrive and Classic platter. Rimdrive really improves PRAT over beltdrive.

Moonguy....I went from a 9 inch Nordost wired to a 10.5i (not Classic...but the name change makes no difference) and could not tell a difference. Both arms were dialed in well.....Benz LP. The 9 incher can be raised/lowered on the fly...just not quite as easily as the 10.5i.