Vintage DD turntables. Are we living dangerously?

Fleib, I fear we are still on different pages. I am talking about how to mount an RS-A1. To do so, you aim it at the spindle and let the stylus fall about 21mm short of reaching the spindle. It is my belief that thus you will obtain tangency somewhere near the middle of the playing surface, or wherever you prefer by adjusting the stylus underhang (i.e., the stylus hits the label a little closer than 21mm from the spindle or a little farther away, whatever suits you). If you look again at the diagram in Hiho's reference, see the arc that is shown as a dotted line. See that achieving tangency at point B will require you to adjust underhang such that the stylus falls on that dotted line arc some distance from the spindle, which I take to be about 21mm, from my memory of the RS-A1 instruction manual.

Doren, For caps in the circuit, I would not stray from the original values given in the parts manual available on Vinyl Engine. Voltage rating can be higher than original but not lower. For caps in the PS, you may wish to use slightly higher values of capacitance, but there is no need for it. Yes, replace all. Any one of them can fail any time, after 30 years. Digikey and Mouser are good sources for Panasonic, Nichicon, and other top quality brands. For only a few bucks you can buy them all.

Lew, Right you are, different pages. I was talking alignment. Interesting thing about that Viv arm. They say you can mount it almost anywhere. No drilling, it's a surface mount.

What about replacing resistors? They are said to age also. Do them on an individual basis?
Regards,

Re-posting the diagram by the RS tonearm designer if it heps:

RS-A1 tonearm set up

Good luck!

.

Fleib, RS-A1 is also surface mount with no fasteners to the TT plinth surface. Thus you can (all too easily) move it back and forth with respect to the spindle, if you want to fiddle with where on the LP surface you will achieve tangency. The saving grace is that alignment need not be at all exact, because the best you can do is to achieve a single point of tangency on the LP surface. Precise positioning only affects WHERE that single point will be located.

Resistors are ageless, except carbon composition ones (cylindrical in shape and brown in color, bearing circumferential colored rings that denote the value in ohms) which can indeed drift over time and due to temperature. I suppose it would not hurt to check carbon resistors to determine whether the value is within ~10% of the schematic value. If so, I would leave them alone. If not, replace.

Hello,

Finally got my TT-101 installed in my solid 40" tall birch plywood plinth with Zeta tonearm and EMT HSD-6 cartridge.
Then stayed until 2:00AM listening with fascination!
This is the best sound I have had in my system by a large margin.
So how does the TT-101 compare to the previously installed TT-71?
Smooth as butter, more refined, darker background, like voices come from outer space, so all the oracle's advantages (micro dynamics, air, pitch black background) + the macro dynamics, impact and the tonality of the TT-71, simply incredible!
Very happy and thankful to you all for your invaluable help in fixing the minor issue.
Off topic: Lewm, noticed OTL amps in your system. Great choice!
I own Joule-Electra LA-100 Mk III and VZN-80 OTL.
Heard other OTL's too (Tenor, McAlister).
OTL's are the most effortless, natural sounding amps out there, in my opinion. Closest thing to a wire with a gain...
Cheers,

Doron