Von scheikert VR4jr what are you using ?


I just got a new pair and I am wondering what amp would be best. I have a Cary SLP-98F1 as a pre and currently using a V12 to drive them. I have a BAT VK-200 as a spare and I am going to hook it up this week end, to see how it sounds with the SLP.
I originally heard the VR's driven by NuForce 9.02 mono's, they sounded fantastic. They were in a treated HT room, which is totally diferent than my space. Right now before break in they sound good but I get don't get close to the sound I heard in the demo room(of coarse I never do). I can only come out about 1 1/2 ft. from the front wall, so I'm pretty sure that is where I lose a lot of the spatiousness.
I am curious to see what other VR4jr owners are using and what they have heard elsewhere.
jdodmead
Blindjim,
Are you saying that you have cables hooked up the all 3 pairs of posts on each speaker?
I find the manual very poorly written as far as wiring goes, especially considering the numerous options.
I think the upper set on the bass module is only for connection to the data link. So that if biwiring, you only would connect to the lowest pair on the bass module and the pair on the M/T module, without using the jumper. Is this correct?
Thanks
Mfsoa ...yes. All three sets of binding posts have speaker cables attached to them... the Signature 10 bi-wire set is attached to the mid bass, and upper module binding posts... low pass on the mid bass, and high pass on the upper module. the single low bass driver has a set of Alpha Quad bi-wire active x, (not the x2, like the Sig's, but still 'biwires'), and I used a pair of banana adapters with both plug in and pressure fittings to connect both high and low to the pair of posts... itworks best that way vs. just using the low pass pair.

Of course the brass plates connecting the two drivers in the bass module has been removed. No 'data link is or has been used in my system.

Primarily the reason for this is that in this fashion better reproduction of the low end is available, IMO. i SAW THIS HOOK UP AT A DEALER. He used other speaker cables however. I use what I got. Needing 15ft isn't gonna give a person a lot of options unless they are willing to go off for some big money speaker wires. and as they only go down to the mid to low 30's anyhow... these I think are fine... till I can afford another better bass cable option.

also, this hook up is due to the fact the speaker cables I got were one owners previously... and the 'span' of the bi wires was not sufficient to traverse the total distavnce from the lowest binding posts to the top most ones all by their lonesome. You need about a 20 inch spread or better to make that jump... Most bi-wires, are 16 or less... having but two legs of 6 to 8 inches. Sure makes it tough...

But these were built to have bi amped anyhow. so in that instance, one biwire set and one dedicated normal set does the deal....

do remember to remove the brass plates connecting the two lower drivers before doing what I did. You're only overcoming one crossover this way... not both. I seem to get more impact on the lower portion of the scale like I have it... and I did try a couple ways of hooking them up.. and with a few different wires.. nothing spectacular in regard to the type of wires.. just run of the mill cables.

The seamlessness and/or cohesiveness of the lower end registers sound was more the noticed aspect. Wether it's the fashion of the 'hook up' or the same brand, yet different models accounting for it, nonetheless, it's there. there's simply a better blending.

Although preceeding the Sig 10's the Alpha Quad x active were the main cables, and an ole set of Monster biwires were at the spot they maintain now... the Monster 1.4's actually had more 'jump', but the Alpha's join better with the Sig 10's... that's all either way it's an improvment over the brass plates... actually just cutting out some romex vs. the paltes was an improvemnt. Copper is better than brass... and solid wires on the bottom is best too. IMO... for these speakers. "RMV".

oF COURSE, IF YOU HAVE A 20 - 24 INCH SPAN OF BI WIRES OR ORDER SOME THAT WAY... JUST HOOK TO THE BOTTOM POSTS AND UPPER MODULE AS THE MANUAL SAYS.

Hope that answers your quesiton
I am now using a 10 watt (20 at 4 ohm) amp whose power supply is a 12V battery. Drives the JR's no problem to moderate listening levels. That said I have come to the conclusion that the JR's are just too big for my room. The overall dimensions of my room are fine for the JR's but given where I have to put them they just do not have enough room to breathe. I have begun to look for smaller speakers and will be selling my pair. While I have had JR's for 2 years now, I have only had this pair for 2 months (recent production - zip 48067).
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No doubt about that, Tvad. I may be just a little crazier than the next guy about this hobby, and trying stuff out. ;)