VPI Classic Platter- Naked or better with a mat?

This is a family-oriented forum.  Please take your platter porn elsewhere.  ;-)

Billstevenson,

I have a Prime too, and like you I had bad static, and I also purchased the deer skin.  Solved my static issue for the most part completely. The static is the only negative about the Prime, otherwise it's a wonderful deck. 

I'm using an Acoustech electronic stylus force gauge--have for years. I'm wondering if anyone is using the same and found this: When I put the gauge down on the aluminum platter, it won't zero out. It flits about with positive and negative numbers. I move it to a different location and it zeros out fine. I never had this problem with my original Scout acrylic platter. I can't get an accurate VTF reading without the gauge sitting at zero before I drop the needle. Thoughts?

Do you have the cart near the scale when zeroing?  My benz ruby will move the scale a few hundredths of a gram easy making it tough to calibrate, I now add a sheet of lint free fabric to the scale and zero with the cart docked.

On my Classic 3 SE Sig...  one thing I appreciate about this table is it's ability to sonically sort out all kinds of accessories I want to try.

Any item I try results in a different sound. This is, after all, a plus. To be able to "tune" your tt to your liking is a good thing as long as you have an understanding of the differences.

I always go naked. (I don't own a periphery ring). I find big differences in the Stillpoints LP 1 vs the VPI center weight. I usually prefer the Stillpoints. I'm in the process of having a VPI center weight machined to accept different materials. Just from my own test, I've used carbon fiber, vinyl, and ebony gaboon. All have a different sonic signature.

Regarding static, my expensive but well worth while investment in an Audio Desk cleaner solves the static problem.