Why do I need power management if I have a great power cord?

OK. What is far more likely is that the 48 Amp value is actually how much current is present when the power supply of the amp is shorted. Its available to the output section in the form of charged capacitance. This is used to help reduce IMD in the output section and is not something that the output section can pass to the loudspeaker (if you see what I did there 😁).

Yup, caught that. Shorted or driving Acoustats 😁 Talk about a vicious load for an amp. They were the reason for Ampzillas and Crown DC300 amps! The DC 300 would drive a cast iron pipe or a welder! 🤣

Yup, caught that. Shorted or driving Acoustats 😁 Talk about a vicious load for an amp. They were the reason for Ampzillas and Crown DC300 amps! The DC 300 would drive a cast iron pipe or a welder! 🤣

I have a 300A welder.
However I do not use it for speakers.

And I would not consider a Pass amp for use as a welder, but it might be cheaper than some welding machines.

I just went from one to two subs and my wonderful monitor speakers along with an integrated upgrade. Just a couple of days a gi I realize I’m not getting any change in bass response and while my monitors sound great my home concert hall was lacking. Sure enough both sub fuses blew, yes power surge( Florida go figure) I had upgraded my wall outlets and power cord but simply forget to plug into my McIntosh power conditioner.  My one piece of Mc gear left. Simply over looked and now back to glorious sound. Yes that was an expensive piece but it will stay put

How much did the fuses cost?
Are ythe subs working with the new fuses installed?

To Holmz: Thank you for the clarification regarding ‘what he did there.’ I lost sight of the fact that the amp’s input signal is used to modulate the power supply being output to the speakers via tube or transistor.

After digesting the Audio Science Review vs. PS Audio ‘debate,’ I’m no longer considering the purchase of a power conditioner for the purpose of cleaning up my sound, but I am going to look into a decent, audio-grade power strip to protect my equipment, as recommended by Amir at ASR and by a link posted earlier in this thread.

To the original poster: My take-away from the discussion thus far is that you don’t need a power conditioner, but you do need to be confident that your equipment is getting the power it needs. A dedicated line from the fuse box would be best, but short of that, try to keep computers, WI-FI routers, dish-washers, air conditioners, washing machines and the like off line if they are on the same circuit. (Hopefully, they aren’t.) You probably need to invest in a ‘better’ quality surge protector. The jury is out for me regarding the use of isolating transformers, unless you are experiencing issues with ground hums (and I hope you’re not).

I’m not convinced of the need for 240 volt service, personally, but I might consider it as an alternative to pulling 10 AWG solid conductor wire. I would think that 12 AWG would be plenty at that voltage.