Why does better power = better sound?

Has anyone actually tried hard wiring a good 12 awg chord, bypassing the IEC of an amp or/? just to compare? I haven't seen any feed back regarding this comparison as yet. Maybe a decent shielded computer chord you can pick up for less than 20 bucks?

If you are really interested in the why, the Shunyata website may offer considerable scientific insight into the answer. .Apparently the development of the DTCD analyzer allowed Shunyata to develop it's new power conditioners.Suggested good reading for those with a scientific bent.

...Borrow or have someone construct some for you and have a listen...

Did that, heard nothing. A three foot piece of cord is not an intellegent attribute to sound in this block of the circuit. You might have crappy contact (IEC's are especially terrible)and the oversized contact thickness can firm them up some. I used good quality hospital grade plugs for better contact pressure and high grade IEC plugs. The 14 AWG wire going between the wall plug and the pre amp is more than plenty. The AC circuit to your electronics is no better than the WORST part, and in no way does it equal the best part. We sure like to think so, though.

Once the AC gets to the power supply block, THAT block better do it's job plain and simple. DC coming out is agnostic to what AC is coming in if a power supply is any where decent at all. And, a passive power cord's influence the AC line noise or current delivery is moot. The power supply block should take control.

DC power is DC power. It has to supply the current draw without VLD (voltage level deviation) and current sag while efficiently removing line noise. Anything past that is physically not there unless you plain decide that it is. DC is DC.

Lower voltage 110 that should be closer to 120? Yes, you can bump it to 120, but the current delivery will drop in relationship to the voltage increase. You can't get something for nothing. The watts delivered have to remain the same. Not to worry, the current is still amply high at 120 bumped from a 110 source with a power conditioner.

For AUDIO, once the power supply provides VLD absent DC of the right voltages, you're set. More current delivery than the circuit consumes is simply not going to help. Removing the magnetic fields can certainly be of help...but that's not the power supply per say, but stray magnetic field issues. Audio can't effectively shield magnetic fields as you need low permeability (stuff magnets stuck to) shields to isolate components. And, this is not very practicle. Magnetic fields are a squared field magnitude law, so MOVING them is easiest. Witness all the outboard power supplies. Foil and braids do nothing for 60 cycle hum. You need CMRR (common mode rejection ratio) using twisted leads and better yet into balanced inputs for the best passive(twisted pairs)and active (balanced inputs) effects. RFI noise is easily removed with a torrid (often called a CHOKE) around the power cord that looks like a load to RF and RF is converted into heat. This keeps noise INSIDE your equipment that it makes, and RFI noise OUTSIDE from getting in. It can't "remove" it, but you can STOP it's circuit path. Wide bandwidth amplifiers can clip trying to amplify RF as this is a hugely inefficient task. So yes, make sure RF is not a problem as the clipping will be superimposed and heard at audio levels.

Inky blackness in background noise is good thermal shot noise control (you tube people know this) and A/C leakage control and not the DC power coming in. DC can't make noise. A power cord can't fix a power supply.

Why is audio the only electronic discipline that can't be measured? "Sounds" funny to me.

PS - And, a car does NOT peform better and better with higher grade fuel. Premium gas is actually not higher grade at all if you count BTU capacity, it actually is WORSE! The increased compression ratio "premium" fuel allows over lesser octane fuels has to be positively offset with higher torque at lower RPMs in properly designed higher compression engines. If an engines is unchanged, you want to use the LOWEST octane grade you can to meet the highest level of performance. Drag racers all know this by heart.

My engine( Mercedes) requires high octane, so says the manufacturer.
I will not switch to regular just to save a few bucks at the pump,it could be more costly in the long run with engine repairs.

Rower you can disagree with me ,but I will also not compromise the sound of my system with low octane cables or power cordsjust to save a couple of bucks.

In both cases performance suffers.

I've spent countless hours making DIY cables and power cords and in the end,I've always preferred the ones I bought(Shunyata in my case, but there are others as good or better)to what I've made or the ones that came in the box.

You may love the way the Belden works with your system, but it and Mogami and Canare just didn't work for me.

So far Furutech wire has shown merits in a DIY power cord.

And for me on my system, it's very easy to hear the differeces between power cords, even when used on the SME TT.
Each power cord that I used placed it's own sonic signature on the lps that I played.
Some cables gave more bass weight but less midrange purity,while another power cord did the opposite.

If there is one thing that I've found out, it's that you should never trust the power supply of any piece of audio gear.They've all been compromised to a price point.

Try a HiFI Supreme fuse(unfortunately you most likely dismiis them)on any of you components and notice what it does.
No matter how good or bad your power supply is, the sound can be compromised if you skimp on addressing the power going into that supply.

It's been said many times, garbage in, garbage out.
But you have to be able to recognize garbage, not just accept it as the status quo.

Saddly that's what most folks do.

They place their gear on an altar and worship it as if it came from the audio gods, thinking that nothing can improve upon it's perfection.
Some would argue that if a component sounds better with an expensive power cord, dedicated line, fuse etc, then it was flawed or not well designed.

I would say that those folks who refuse to address power issues have never heard how good their systems really can sound.

Getting back to cars and gasoline,I can't remember reading any of the racing pros back in my youth,using low octane gasoline.

In truth,I always felt they mixed up the equivalent of jet fuel.

But I don't have experience in that field, so it's just speculation.

But I do have experience and it's ongoing(new Furutech GTX D G receptacle on the way).

And what that experience has taught me is that nothing will change when you change nothing.
Something always changes when you change something.

Everything has an effect on your sound.It never sounds the same after you've played around with stands, wires, room conditioning, power conditioning.

The mission is to find what is an improvement.You need to move forward and not backwards.

You shouldn't sacrifice one area of your sound (clarity) for the sake of more bass.

The change has to be positive across the board.

But of course this is all moot to those who feel their system is as good as it gets and can't be improved.

Personally, I've never known of the existance of such a system.

I certainly know I've never heard one.

Add a Furutech GTX D gold receptacle to the list of power products that provide better sound.

After reading about it's use in an upscale power conditioner review I thought I would give one a try.

It replaced a very good Shunyata RZ1, and bettered it in better resolution, smoothness and speed.There was also a reduction in graininess that I never knew was there.

Again, few people realize how much crud there is in the electrical path.
We just accept it as they way it is.

When some of it is eliminated,you realize how much it has been degrading the sound.

Now I am left wondering how much better my sound would be with the power conditioner that was reviewed.