??? Wood Plinths: Layers: 7/2/1 ? Wood Type: Solid or Veneer or Vinyl Wrap wood look ?

btw, 

any forum, cameras, audio, ... any thread, I always imagine other interested readers, amateur or pro, learning stuff as I did in the beginning

so I tend to answer more than the OP's original question or issue.

When a thread takes a side line, I hope to get back on line, start a new thread, or private message as you say.

links do disappear, but for learning now, they work well.

@elliottbnewcombjr - not sure if you wanted to consider DIY approaches, but I have learned some useful tips when building mine.

I had a Rega Planar 2 and was never satisfied with it’s performance, so I thought I’d give building a new plinth a try.

Rega’s approach was to build a plinth that dispersed/shed vibrations, but it always seemed to only do half the job and the rest had to be accomplished by various stand/shelf approached

My approach was to build a more dense plinth that would not vibrate due to musical vibrations and to do this I opted for a HIGH MASS approach

I used three layers of MDF each layer machined to allow for arm and bearing mounting and Wiring and motor housing.

The layers are glued together for a very dense, but ring-free plinth
- The finish is red gloss paint

The feet are 2" diameter bronze cones placed at strategic locations to minimize vibrations being transferred to the arm and bearing

It sits on a granite tile, with foam between the granite and a 3/4" MDF shelf.

The result is a very stable (albeit heavy) TT that does not convey footsteps or musical vibrations and works incredibly well with the Rega style arms - mine is the classic Series 3 from Audiomods.

The TT also has an acrylic platter and alloy sub-platter all supported by a ceramic ball bearing.

The result is a very clean, detailed sound with exceptionally crisp dynamics.

Here’s a couple of links showing more details.
http://image99.net/blog/files/04fdba8476cfd21bdd7a5fdf38c8cdf5-28.html
http://image99.net/blog/files/category-isolation.html

Hope you find this useful - Steve

williewonka, I agree with the high mass approach and layered plinth construction. I should have my Victor CL-P2D plinth and TT 61 motor on Monday according to UPS tracking. I did buy the dustcover, probably have that by the end of next week as well.
I want to publicly thank Elliot as well for bringing that TT to my attention. I tend to forget about the Canadian market and there are deals to be had with the dollar being so strong.

So lets get back to the original post and talk about factory issued wood plinths and their construction.
I can offer that the plinth of my Victor CL-P2D is 7 layers, top, bottom and middle two layers are wood composite and the other 3 layers are a inorganic material. It's a layered construction alternating between the two types of material, each layer about 10mm thick. I have read reports that the arm boards are layered as well.
The plinth is quite heavy and very "dead" by all accounts.

BillWojo

Aside from construction, I was hoping we could gather together descriptions of the final finish surfaces.

Big JVC Victor Plinths are real wood veneer, with a semi-gloss finish.

The type of wood veneer, i.e. walnut, rosewood, .... it is actually hard to know for sure, it may be they specifically selected highly figured walnut and added a reddish color stain which makes you suspect rosewood. In any case, very nice.

The arm boards are 3/4" thick, also special bonded layers, same veneer.

The grain pattern on the arm boards is the same direction as the deck, and very well matched, however the arm board(s) could have been moved from one plinth to another, or purchased separately, and years of light can discolor portions of the deck, so a faded armboard might not look good in an un-faded deck.

Ask about existing holes, the distance, center of spindle to center of hole. and the diameter of the hole. Depending on the size of an arm's base plate, you can 'ease' a hole a bit farther or closer by enlarging the hole a bit one way or another. worked for my rear arm.

When you add a long arm, things get tricky. If it had a Victor 7082, that is 282mm center to center, 11-1/8". I put my Blackbird arm, 12.5" center to center, new location, then had an exposed hole. It was a 1-1/2" hole, so I bought a 1-5/8" bit, drilled a round plug out of 1/2" wood, the plug just smaller than 1-1/2". Blackened top surface with marker, and taped the plug in from the bottom. Now there is a 1/4" round recess where I keep the 45 adapter, looks nice.

btw, that Blackbird arm rear counterweight portion of the arm just fits inside of the huge dust cover, and I cut a notch in my dust cover for the arm’s junction box, (the Russians at New Art Vinyl don’t like the sound of DIN connectors), so the cartridge wires start above the deck. I could have drilled a small hole, put the box below, or put the box on the rear face of the deck, but the wires are the most delicate silk covered litz wires I ever saw, and considering future changes ... He says there are 38 strands of individually coated copper inside the silk sheath. Hell to deal with, but sounds terrific.