Harwood Flooring Information For Dedicated Room


I am seeking advise on hardwood floor installation for my dedicated sound room. The wood flooring will tentatively be used on only 1/3 of the floor - the speaker end of the room. The hardwood will end about 8 inches in front of the speakers such that the speakers will be sitting on the hardwood and fire into the carpeted end of the room. The room is on the second level with a wood subfloor on 2x10 joists. Speakers are Dunlavy SC4a on Sistrum SP101 stands.

Should I use...

Real Hardwood?
Engineered?
Floating?
Nailed down?
Glued?
Underlayment or directly to subfloor?

Any information would be much appreciated. Thanks so much for your experience and expertise!
128x128seasoned
Newbee and Has2be have provided excellent advice, and my hat is off to them.

The only additional thing I would recommend is a 1/4" layer of luan on the plywood subfloor, which is how I went.

As far as underlayment goes, rose paper is the material of choice these days. It also makes the job go easier, as the hardwood glides across it easily.

I'm particularly happy with my own installation in my home, which followed this route, though I definitely noticed the rooms are noticeably colder in the winter time in comparison to when I had wall to wall carpet. And, because I was so happy with the previous installation a couple of years ago, I'm now about to do one additional room in the next month, and am considering replacing the rose paper with either asphalt roofing paper, or another product called "Insulayment" to address the winter time feel issue.

And, by the way, if you lay down an unfinished floor, I more than recommend finishing it (yourself, not a contractor) with polymerized tung oil from Sutherland Welles, who Rushton recommended to me. Once you see a floor finished with this material, polyurethane will NEVER look right to you again. While the per gallon cost is probably twice as much, it went so far, I only needed about 1/4 to 1/3 of the estimated amount, so the actual cost is much lower. And, with tung oil, you can refinish wherever/whenever you want. With polyurethane, you cannot make spot repairs, the entire floor must be sanded and then refinished.

Best of luck!
What underlay product should be used for basement concrete floor under engineered hardwood flooring? I looked at some but did not see any in the US.

I have engineered hardwood flooring and was expecting to lay that down in the basement as a floating floor for the entire dedicated listening room. It was stated in the previous post that floating floor is not good for dedicated sound rooms. Why is that? Then it states that laminates are good for basements. Please clarify for a dedicated sound room that is in the basement. Thanks, Bob
For Stenersr.... Hi Bob . Your questions about laminate for use in the basements are good points to bring up . I was answering about flooring over a suspended floor (joists) , first and second floors . Laminated or engineered wood floors are not as affected by moisture because of the layering and bonding that occurs when manufactured and the glues used to bond them together . That is their greatest strength and why they were initialy developed along with dwindelling resources . To clarify why if possible not to use in a dedicated sound room is when used over a suspended floor they really affect sound , I think they call it lively but to me it sounds more like an empty room the way sound bounces quicker . Real Hardwood is not quite as lively in my experience any way . But realistically there are alot of factors , ie. height of ceiling, size of room , insulation, furniture, doors windows . Now the more important question about underlay in a basement over a concrete floor . This has less to do with sound than peice of mind . Concrete and wood of any kind be it natural or engineered should never come in contact with each other . Some lay 10 mil poly on the concrete floor first going at least 3 inches up the wall behind the drywall then the plywood subfloor . 15 pound felt paper can be used as well . These are cheap and not that effective solutions to provide a barrier from the concrete so the wood is not allowed to wick the moisture up and create that musty mouldy smell . I would strongly suggest that if you need to lay a subfloor in the basement use Dricore panels . They come 2 ft by 2 ft with a poly waffle sheet bonded to engeneered wood . The poly waffles make contact with cement and raise your whole floor off the concrete . Two very important things it does is provide a moisture barrier and allows the concrete to breath . That little bit of air movement it allows will make your floor 6 degrees warmer at the finished floor level . It can hold almost 6000 pounds per square ft as well . Highly recommend this product for a solid basement subfloor . Its the only way I will install a basement subfloor . Go to www.dricore.com and all you need to know is there . I know they sell it at home depot . Enjoy