Best way to convert adjustable shelves?

What type of mounting system holds the shelves?

I ask because my components are all on adjustable shelves using KV brackets and 2.5" maple butcher block shelves.

The cabinet uses recessed and flush metal runners that accept 10-24 machine screws creating the bracket. The screws are fitted with a tubular sleeve to create a straight surface. From the weight of the LPs, some of the screws have become bent, so I can't imagine using this system for components.

Thanks for the reply.

Thought about Dowles yet?

If you can keep the adj shelf stable enough to drill a small pilot hole straight thru the cabinet into the shelf so all aligns properly, I'd say go that way.

some wood caps can be inserted into the recess you'll allow for in the cabinets wall by sinking the dowle in so it's not quite up to being flush with the cabinets side or back walls. then just push in some mushroom buttons into the holes where you used dowles!

Simple... well almost... but surely not beyond being a reasonable solution.

Thanks Blindjim, that's a great and simple solution.

That's how the top and bottom of the cabinet are constructed...at least it appears to be dowles but could be screws under dowle caps.

My only reservation is that the shelves are slightly undersized (width), so there is a small gap (3/16") between the sides of the shelves and the sides of the cabinet. Also, there is no back.

Screws? So?

That's just another way to go and/or look.

you can get screws with 'shoulders' or sleeves on them too.

there's all sorts of ways to do this... don't get to "paralysis by analysis", with it.

Maybe use shiny metal dowles. perhaps you could take a look around and seek out some solid metal dowles and add onto them some compliant sleeve to aid damping of resonances or vibrations too.

however I'd go with as strongly afixed as is possible... and without a back, and if no piece is to be added there as an additional brace, two per side.

I'd also use a drill guide to insure alignment and equal depths.

Start small with a pilot hole and then move up, to avoid splitting anything. if hard wood dowles can be found or turned down for you, I'd also choose them over the standard ones... but they would do as well actually.

just make the holes a hair larger than the dowles or pins for the adhesive to get inthere.