Best way to convert adjustable shelves?


I have an old vertical LP cabinet made from solid maple with 1-3/8" thick shelves, top, bottom, and sides. The shelves are 21" x 16" so they're perfect for my components.

Problem: The shelves are adjustable! My first thought was to use heavy metal L-brackets but maybe there's a better method sonically. Any thoughts?

Thanks
kennythekey
Thanks Blindjim, that's a great and simple solution.

That's how the top and bottom of the cabinet are constructed...at least it appears to be dowles but could be screws under dowle caps.

My only reservation is that the shelves are slightly undersized (width), so there is a small gap (3/16") between the sides of the shelves and the sides of the cabinet. Also, there is no back.
Screws? So?

That's just another way to go and/or look.

you can get screws with 'shoulders' or sleeves on them too.

there's all sorts of ways to do this... don't get to "paralysis by analysis", with it.

Maybe use shiny metal dowles. perhaps you could take a look around and seek out some solid metal dowles and add onto them some compliant sleeve to aid damping of resonances or vibrations too.

however I'd go with as strongly afixed as is possible... and without a back, and if no piece is to be added there as an additional brace, two per side.

I'd also use a drill guide to insure alignment and equal depths.

Start small with a pilot hole and then move up, to avoid splitting anything. if hard wood dowles can be found or turned down for you, I'd also choose them over the standard ones... but they would do as well actually.

just make the holes a hair larger than the dowles or pins for the adhesive to get inthere.
You are welcome.

I was thinking too, if the side walls of the rack aren't thick, you might wanna think about adding a strip of wood into that area to bolster the support. Merely ripping some or having them ripped and using a very good wod glue ought to suffice. A rear cross memeber too is a thought if you follow that path, although I'd make that piece thicker of course, but still flush to the racks walls.

Good luck
The sides are just as thick...1-3/8." The dowle or screw method should work. The bottom is already dowled and sits flat on the floor. There is a leveling issue there with the wood floor so I may have to figure out a way to deal with that...so the cabinet doesn't rock, is level, and does not damage the floor.