Preamp better than Cortese?



It seems Supratek offers enormous value for $$.

So far from above posts it seems Audio Note (ok 50% costlier) and H-CATs (cheaper) are the preamps compared to and MIGHT be better than Cortese (ok it is subjective). Any other pres like Ayre K1x or transformer passives like Silver Rock/Bent TX102s/Dog which might be comparable to Cortese in performance?

Skorpio
skorpiokis38c1
Try the Ayre K-3X preamp with phono.
Ayre discontinued it because the X upgrade brought it sonically very close (maybe too close) to the K-1X. Used for $3k to $3.5k it is a steal.

The only drawback to the K-3X is it only has 33 or so volume notches. This can be a problem is source components have too much gain and/or your speakers / amps are too sensative.

KF
I can't comment on a direct comparison, but if you can use a Silver Rock or Bent transformer passive unit, they will be much more transparent than virtually any active line stage. The transformer controls eliminate the impedance problems associated with resistive element passive pre's. However, you still must have sufficient output from your source to do this. 2v is usually sufficient. Also, if you use phono, there is potentially too-low output from an outboard phono stage, without an active line stage to boost it. If you are careful at matching the components, it can be better than any active pre.
I always look at the volume control in an active preamp since so many designers get lazy here and use one that in effect throws away some of the benefits of great circuitry.
A striking example, IMHO, is CAT Sl-1 III and CAT Ultimate, which use a series stepped attenuator, pushing the signal (and ground) through a whole lot of resistors and solder joints. IMHO, any potentiometer is worse than the best (ladder) stepped attenuator, and I believe the Cortese uses a pot (but wouldn't want to be quoted on that). But if you can use a passive, you'll get more transparency than with any active preamp, IMHO. So I agree with Twl on that. I've built stepped attenuators into a phono preamp, an AHT DM-P but it could be any, and then went out directly to power amps, saving the extra cable that using a phono preamp and an active (or separate passive) preamp would entail. I recommend that to people with the DIY capability to do it. What I literally did was build both the main AHT chassis (small) and the attenuators into a surrounding chassis. For transparency I think that's hard to beat.