I always look at the volume control in an active preamp since so many designers get lazy here and use one that in effect throws away some of the benefits of great circuitry.
A striking example, IMHO, is CAT Sl-1 III and CAT Ultimate, which use a series stepped attenuator, pushing the signal (and ground) through a whole lot of resistors and solder joints. IMHO, any potentiometer is worse than the best (ladder) stepped attenuator, and I believe the Cortese uses a pot (but wouldn't want to be quoted on that). But if you can use a passive, you'll get more transparency than with any active preamp, IMHO. So I agree with Twl on that. I've built stepped attenuators into a phono preamp, an AHT DM-P but it could be any, and then went out directly to power amps, saving the extra cable that using a phono preamp and an active (or separate passive) preamp would entail. I recommend that to people with the DIY capability to do it. What I literally did was build both the main AHT chassis (small) and the attenuators into a surrounding chassis. For transparency I think that's hard to beat.
A striking example, IMHO, is CAT Sl-1 III and CAT Ultimate, which use a series stepped attenuator, pushing the signal (and ground) through a whole lot of resistors and solder joints. IMHO, any potentiometer is worse than the best (ladder) stepped attenuator, and I believe the Cortese uses a pot (but wouldn't want to be quoted on that). But if you can use a passive, you'll get more transparency than with any active preamp, IMHO. So I agree with Twl on that. I've built stepped attenuators into a phono preamp, an AHT DM-P but it could be any, and then went out directly to power amps, saving the extra cable that using a phono preamp and an active (or separate passive) preamp would entail. I recommend that to people with the DIY capability to do it. What I literally did was build both the main AHT chassis (small) and the attenuators into a surrounding chassis. For transparency I think that's hard to beat.