Help with NAD C320BEE brightness. Break-in???


I'm the new proud owner of a NAD C 320BEE integrated amplifier. I’ve been playing it for about 2 weeks now and feel that is a tad too cool & bright sounding – bass & mids are very nice! While I’m not a person that like the lushness of certain tubs amps, I feel this amp need a touch of warmth and smoothness in the high frequency range. I’m wondering if the amp need more break in time?? Or should I run Tara Labs I.C.’s instead of the AMP/PREAMP jumpers. I was considering trying “The Missing Link” jumpers or Reference Gen 2’s ($100.00) interconnects. Thanks in advance.
pinestate
Thanks for the responses so far. I guess it could be my cd player. It's an older Adcom GFA 600 or something like that. It got good reviews about 8 years ago and still works good. I'll admit it! I had to sell my Krell KSA 50s amp last month to fund a new house I'm finishing up.
I was looking for something inexpensive to replace it with and get similar sound. The Krell KSA 50s was sweet and warm. I'm pretty close to the KSA 50s sound, but am missing the warmth in the music. I'm looking for a tweak to get me closer. I do realize I can’t replace a $1300. amp with a $400. integrated and get the same sound, the C 320BEE is not to bad!
When I compare my NAD C 320BEE integrated to my Musical Fidelity A3 integrated (or my retired Adcom GTP500 II/GFA 545 preamp/amp combination), the NAD is slightly below the others in terms of smoothness and warmth ... but the NAD is still fine sounding. I found that upgrading the interconnects and speaker cables helped make the NAD sound more revealing and smoother. Still, the NAD only required modest costing cables and interconnects. I never thought about changing the jumpers and would just doubt that you would have the results that you are looking for (but, if you have good interconnects around ... give it a shot). Your Adcom is probably fine ... I am using a Pioneer PD65, which seems to mate well. If I remember your set-up correctly, you are using bookshelf SNELL speakers and are bi-wiring them, as well. Try the speakers without the bi-wiring (but inter-connect the like speaker leads with speaker cable as opposed to the supplied jumpers). Regards, Rich
I think a little more break-in time will make a bigger difference than new jumpers or cables.
I think the break-in time will do wonders and some better I.C.s from the CD player. I never liked the way it was presented with any of my systems, clinical It's probably the combination of all these elements -- including my speaker cables. Most of the cabling that I'm running seems to be $40. to $65. Monster cable, including the I.C.'s from the CD player (1000.) I'm finally seeing my system as a whole instead of just single components connected -- including the interconnects. I've seen the light!!! Ha ha.
Correction! My current monster interconnects are M350 or lower ... Some don't even have a number they just say J.r.