Tube power vs Solid state power, how much is enoug


Thinking about getting into tubes. My concern is how much is enough? From what I've seen, tube amp power is, on the whole, lower than solid state. I mean - ain't watts, watts? It's sort of confusing. Not being a big fan of non-dynamic (plannar, which there is nothing wrong with them, just not my cup of tea)speakers, I aim to wind up with either BW802, Legacy Focus/whispers, or the like. Unless I can find another way to achieve full range sound with a tube anp, I'll probably use(and really want to), my Krell with the tube, in a two amp configuration, driving one pair of the above mentioned units.

Shouldn't manufacturers just state voltage development or current ratings, instead of watts? Sure, more folks recognize the term watts, as it relates to power. But if it all comes down to how much voltage/current can be developed, and how quickly, then the term "watts", seems arbitrary. More so wehn you talk about "tube amps".

For the most part, I've long since quit looking at specs and just let my ears do the judging. That seems the best route. Problem with that is my ears usually end up arguing with my wallet, heart, and what is left of my brain. Some of these arguments are frightful. The winner is not always the ears. More times than not, the wallet wins. (not always), but usually. I try to leave the brain out of it as much as possible. Although, in this instance, I need to throw the brain a bone so I ask this question.

Just how do you figure out tube watts vs. solid state?

Please help my poor, ignored, seldom the winner, brain.

Thanks,
the brain
blindjim
I own a pair of the original ATC SCM 10 passive and they're 80db (I have not seen anything lower) speakers and extreme power hungry as expected. I used a krell fb300 (300Watt) and it sounded grainy and harsh. I then switched to Mac MC240 (55Watt) and it sounded warm and sweet but not as dynamic. I then switched to Lafayette KT-550 (60Watt) and it is the best match I ever heard coming out from these speakers with warm, sweet and dynamic. Just like the SS gear, not all tube gear are created equal. Don't just truss power ratings because you have no idea how it was measured.
Well, all the comments have merit. I do appreciate them greatly. Thank you.

Learned a lot since I opened this thread. some startling things as well. Like just how much power is actually running the speakers at any given time. Usually less than 20 watts. Also, just how much better good tube amps sound than similarly priced solids.

Hence I am sold on the idea to bi amp. two reasons.

One - don't have to lose my existing solid state amp.
Two - get to enjoy fuller sweeter, more rounded and life like music. That's the ticket, right?

Now just which tube AMP (S)? And which tubes in the tube amp to use? pUSH PULL, FEEDBACK, SELF BIASING, CATHODE FOLLOWER. . . . mAN! wHAT A BUNCH OF STUFF TO DEAL WITH.

PRETTY SURE I'LL GO WITH THE ONE THAT SOUNDS BEST, IN MY PRICE RANGE, AND NEEDS THE LEAST INVOLVEMENT ON MY PART.

Any suggestions, apart from the Laffeyett? Used or new?

Thanks to all.
I have a Jadis 40 watt intergrated Orchestra Reference, has 4 KT90's. I just built a pr of Seas' Thor's, rated 87db, that is extremely low. The little Jadis has no problem, provided the treble and bass tone controls are given a little boost. Results, Rich bass, clean(no bark) mids, no frothy or "fake" highs. Thus tubes can drive super low sensitive speakers. Provided its a good tube amp. In contrary the big 100 watt Rotel ss amp, 981, sounds like pure Class Grabage on the Thors.

Just having picked up a pair of Klipsch RF7's I think this thread is great.
The choices for an amp seem endless......