Here's How I Make My Equipment Racks


In response to a previous thread, here's how I make my
equipment racks:
List of equipment: 3/4" thick MDF cut to desired shelf
size
(4) 3/4" diameter 6' threaded steel rods
3/4" nuts and washers (8 per shelf)
Drill a 3/4" hole in the corner of each shelf in exactly the
same place. I do this by scribing a line with a square 1 1/2" inch in and using a nail set to punch a hole where the lines intersect. A drill press works great to drill the holes so they are all straight and true. Now that you have
a hole drilled in each corner of each shelf, simply screw
the whole thing together, adjusting each shelf to fit your
gear. Use a square to make sure your first shelf is straight, and measure each one likewise. If you do this
correctly, your rack will sit straight and level. If you
need to level it further, buy (4) 3/4 rod connectors, which
are about 3" high, and screw these into the bottom of the
rod and use them to level it. I paint the steel rod using
Krylon Industrial enamel (flat black looks best), and paint
the shelves to match your decor. This makes a very solid,
heavy audio rack. Total cost is about $40 for the steel
rod, $15 for the nuts and washers (about $1.00 a pound)
$20 for the MDF, and $5.00 worth of paint for a total under
$100. I've made several racks this way and have used the
same method to make CD racks.
Dave
dave43
-never do multiple re-edits at 3:oo am :0)

Re:in my reply to Sean, the next to last comment should instead read -

>>>What diameter threaded rod would you recommend for the risers ? <<<

I'd say that it isn't all that critical but my preference would be to use the smaller diameter rod stock to increase the likelyhood for energies to be kept at higher frequency modes which the shelving can more readily absorb/convert to heat.

Ken
Thank you for all the detailed information you've provided, Ken. This has been an extremely helpful discussion.
Ken, Thanks for getting back to *ALL* of us : )

I'll take a look at the website that you provided. If their prices are good, i'll be upset that i didn't find them PREVIOUS to buying all of those other racks that i thought were a "rare commodity" : )

How would you feel about using foam "pipe wrap" or "plumbing insulation" tightly wrapped around the threaded rod ? This should:

1) minimize any ringing / vibration transfer along the rod

2) damp room reflections from the rod

3) keep mass to a minimum.

Any thoughts / comments ??? Sean
>

PS... Psychic, what does "IDEM" mean ???
Hi Sean,

I think your pipe wrap idea is a fine one.I hasten to add that you really needn't to cover the entire length tho.
A little damping goes a long ways and quite frankly,I'll bet if you were to audition your Premiers both with and without damped rods in a side by side,you'd find that the differences would be extremely subtle and probably unnoticable in a more casual listening session.
Your biggest enemies are primarily the powerful and distruptive low frequency energies transmitted from the flooring and from the internally generated energies of power supplies and transformers.
I find that while it is beneficial to minimise and control airbourne intrusion,that these types of disturbances are *relatively* benign.The reason for that is that they are typically generated by the music itself and consequently "play in time" and "in tune".
I tend to avoid using extreme measures in controlling those for fear of throwing the baby out with the bathwater by "overdamping".
By this I mean that most conventional damping methods(particularly elastomers) tend to do the bulk of their work over fairly narrow frequency ranges and thus tend to create "hi-fi effects" by fragmenting the musical content.
The *art* involved in resonance control appears to center around creating measures which are extremely broadband and even in their nature so as to most faithfully preserve expression, emotions and meaning.

Best,
Ken