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Here's How I Make My Equipment Racks

In response to a previous thread, here's how I make my
equipment racks:
List of equipment: 3/4" thick MDF cut to desired shelf
size
(4) 3/4" diameter 6' threaded steel rods
3/4" nuts and washers (8 per shelf)
Drill a 3/4" hole in the corner of each shelf in exactly the
same place. I do this by scribing a line with a square 1 1/2" inch in and using a nail set to punch a hole where the lines intersect. A drill press works great to drill the holes so they are all straight and true. Now that you have
a hole drilled in each corner of each shelf, simply screw
the whole thing together, adjusting each shelf to fit your
gear. Use a square to make sure your first shelf is straight, and measure each one likewise. If you do this
correctly, your rack will sit straight and level. If you
need to level it further, buy (4) 3/4 rod connectors, which
are about 3" high, and screw these into the bottom of the
rod and use them to level it. I paint the steel rod using
Krylon Industrial enamel (flat black looks best), and paint
the shelves to match your decor. This makes a very solid,
heavy audio rack. Total cost is about $40 for the steel
rod, $15 for the nuts and washers (about $1.00 a pound)
$20 for the MDF, and $5.00 worth of paint for a total under
$100. I've made several racks this way and have used the
same method to make CD racks.
Dave
Ag insider logo xs@2xdave43
eldulcesol
197 posts
 
Just a suggestion, you can convert this rack to a Synergy rack for about a $100 more. Go to MSC from google and search for Parker parframe aluminum extrusions. These profiles are identical to the Salamander Synergy racks. They also have them in a two by four size as well as the standard two by two.

With these you can slide 3/8" carriage bolts in the grooves to fasten the shelf brackets to it. The brackets can be made from square, rectangular or angle iron.

If you want shelf isolation, grind some 1 1/2" 1/4" hex or black allen screws to a point. Drill a 1/4" hole in the brackets near the posts. Then insert the bolts in the holes, points facing up, with a nut on each side of the bracket to hold this bolt securly. Then place the shelf on top of the points.

With these posts inbetween the top and bottom shelf, this should make the rack more stable than just the threaded rods.

Just thought I would add my two cents, er $100 worth.
cpeay
3 posts
 
I've built a similiar rack, but I glued two pieces of 3/4 MDF together to make each shelf 1-1/2" thick and then covered them with cherry veneer (pain in the rear for a novice). I also used 3/4" brass rods (v. steel), brass nuts & brass washers. I got some internally threaded AudioPoints into which the 3/4" brass rods are screwed.

It really made a huge difference in the sound, but it cost me about $500 or so to build the flipping thing and I ended up buying a table saw and a drill press to build it for another $400! I should have just bought a Sistrum Rack.
eldulcesol
197 posts
 
Cpeay, you can make a lot more things for your audio system with your table saw and drill prees. If you like to experiment, you have the tools to do so. Make yourself a matching TV stand, diy sub, anti-vibration plates to put on your speakers and components. Try different woods and make yourself a big rock or any type of platform to put under your components. If you do some research here on A'gon, they will tell you what wood to use and not to use. The lists goes on. Have some fun. A lathe would be nice, put that is pushing it a bit.
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