Urgent Help: Wire for dedicated lines???

There are numerous upgrade wires available for dedicated lines which I've read about (try to find those archive threads; Kimber is one definite source) but I used #10 solid copper THHN. Mike VansEvers gave me this idea which has worked so well that I'm just amazed.
You make up a bundle of black white & green conductors, all aligned with the printing running in the same direction. Fasten the ends of the bundle with electrical tape, clamp one end in a vice & put the other end in your variable speed 3/8" drill chuck. Slowly spin the bundle to wind it up like a spring; when you release power it will uncoil considerably. Then exchange ends & finish the twist. This twisted configuration is similar to the way many upgrade AC cords are made, it cancels stray magnetic fields outside the conductors. Lay the bundle in across the floor & connect it temporarily, then listen for awhile to test & determine which direction sounds better than the other direction. When you install in conduit or Greenfield, then burnish the exposed wire ends nice & shiny with crocus cloth (or an ink eraser in a pinch)& clean them thoroughly with Kontact, etc. Also shine up & Kontact clean the male prongs of your AC cords. Use a high grade outlet; FIM etc. Also consider isolated grounding. Your electrician won't understand any of this "audio nonsense" & will probably try to tell you that it makes no difference, but believe me it absolutely does. If you can get him to install a small fusebox & use a ceramic fuse (vs. glass) that will sound better than any circuit breaker. The newer plastic fuses seem to be OK too. He'll say you're insane but hey you're the paying customer so get it done the way that YOU want it done. Also polish & clean the fuse itself & any elecrical contacting surfaces in the distribution box.

Long ago I posted several times on this question, but the forum archives appear to be truncated as I can't locate them anymore. Shame that it is lost as there was a lot of good info in those old posts, & not just mine either.

Worldcup, I've started looking into the same issue,heres a couple a links from here:

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?fcabl&987256243&read&keyw&zz10=gauge

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?ymisc&1009817715&read&keyw&zz10=gauge

Please post anything of interest you come across on this subject.

KP

Hi,
Can I run 30A line to a receptacle 20A? Asking this because the cost for 30A and 20A is the same, and I already had Wattgate 20A. Moreover,I can use 30A for a bigger amp in the future.
Some suggest use second ground rod for dedicated lines, others say that tie the dedicated ground to the main ground rod, and then improve the main ground rod. Which way should I use? Electrician suggest a second ground rod for dedicated line. However, the distance from the first and second rod is just 2' apart. Are they too close?
Thanks
Tran

30A wire capacity to 20A outlet is fine if the conductors will fit the outlet screws. I didn't go any larger than #10awg because any larger is a bear to work with (& won't fit into the outlet anyway). Wiring code advises against 2nd seperate ground rod (something about potential ground currents causing damage if you receive a direct lightning hit) but many people do run it separately anyway with good results. Others advise to make a connection from the isolated ground rod back to the original rod (to eliminate the lightning potential scenario) however I don't know if that affects / degrades the isolated grounding advantages; I suspect that it might not be a problem. I would think that the two rods being in close proximity would reduce the hazard potential, if in fact that is actually a real world concern? It sounds like you might actually have an enlightened electrical guy there - his idea sounds reasonable to me anyway.

Bundus is right on about wire choice.I've done exactly as he describes with excellent results.The electrician should know that a separate ground is against code.The reason it's not a good idea is with two ground paths any overvoltage can find it's way back through your equip.isolated ground.Also two ground potentials is the biggest source of ground loop hums ect.Unless you had a separate service feed from the utility transformer and panel grounded to a new rod for your audio circuits the best way to handle your grounding is to suplement your existing service ground with an 8' electrode driven at least 6' from any existing rod and connected in parallel not series to the same lug on the grounding/neutral bar in your panel.Have the electrician connect your new circuits isolated ground wire as close as possible to this point and you will have a star grounded low impedence ground path.This is what I did and the noise floor is much lower....Good luck!