One of the things to look out for when parts swapping is that you know what value you are looking at. A resistor of say 1k ohms at 5% tolerance may be 1050 or 950 ohms. If the designer used his resistors based on measured values and not printed values, you may be substituting a precision 1%resistor of the wrong value. Sometimes it might make a difference and sometimes not. The same could be true for any component. The unit will still operate, but the sound might be degraded, or it may be improved. People that are experienced know which way to go when parts swapping. But, if you never do it, you will never get experienced. Sometimes you just have to jump in and do it. A good method is to try a part, let's say a resistor, that has a 10% tolerance rating. Not too critical. Get some precision resistors, some at the exact printed value, some a little higher , and some a little lower, all within the 10% tolerance rating. Try different values and see what, if any, difference in the sound may be. Also, the brand and type of these passive devices can sound different, so you may want to try a few different brands too. With caps, you need to get the right type and/or orientation or you're goint to screw up. Polarized, non-polarized, elecrolytic, film, etc., with polarized you must get the orientation right,by lining up the marked conductor with the place it should go. With some caps, particularly in power supply filtering, larger Farad ratings can be better, or even "piggybacking" additional caps over existing ones is common. Get some reading material and give it a try.
Component Upgrade/Mods to share?
Anyone done their own little component upgrades on their amps/pre-amps/CD transports/DACs/passive crossovers, and wanna share/report their results? I have been looking at Tantalum/Vishay/Holco resistors, non-inductive wire-wound emitter resistors, BlackGate electrolytic capacitors, as well as Teflon-Film capacitors, and drooling all over the place...
anyone?
anyone?
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- 6 posts total
- 6 posts total