I agree with Nighthawk - it sounds much more like a system problem (including line, breaker, cable and connection integrity) than a line conditioning issue.
Judging by what you've swapped out already, I'd go systematically through cables and power cords next. Also check outlets on a different current loop if you're able (by using a heavy duty extension cord and forget the additional noise). I know you've done a good deal of troubleshooting already but have you tested simple things like (a) the continuity of your outlets and power cords with a line continuity tester and (b) checked for really corroded connections anywhere along the power/cable routes? I've found stock power cords that tested as having an open neutral(!) yet still conducted (some) current this way.
In my area, the city power regularly cycles on a daily basis from 120 volts to below 114 V, and a few towns away, people report city voltage above 130V. Just more issues to look at when you're on a gremlin-chasing spree.
Judging by what you've swapped out already, I'd go systematically through cables and power cords next. Also check outlets on a different current loop if you're able (by using a heavy duty extension cord and forget the additional noise). I know you've done a good deal of troubleshooting already but have you tested simple things like (a) the continuity of your outlets and power cords with a line continuity tester and (b) checked for really corroded connections anywhere along the power/cable routes? I've found stock power cords that tested as having an open neutral(!) yet still conducted (some) current this way.
In my area, the city power regularly cycles on a daily basis from 120 volts to below 114 V, and a few towns away, people report city voltage above 130V. Just more issues to look at when you're on a gremlin-chasing spree.