which solder do you recommend?


I am about to embark on a journey of building a pair of Audio Note kit 2 speakers and will need to solder some Audio Note Lexus copper stranded wire from the crossover to the drivers.

I do not care about price.

What is the best sounding solder in this situation?

Any soldering tips would be appreciated as I am a rookie.

I plan on buying a heat sink and Weller soldering iron.

thanks everyone...

Phil
128x128philjolet
Second the Cardas. Really a good melting point to keep from heating elements more than necessary
Philjolet...New shiny wire, where you have just stripped away the insulation, does not nead cleaning. If there is any suggestion of oxidation on the wire clean it.

Flux cleans the metals being connected, and prevents the rapid oxidation that would otherwise occur while the metal is heated up. Solder is usually made hollow, like macaroni, with the flux inside. Very important...make sure that you don't use "Acid Core" solder. This is too corrosive for use in electronic circuits.

In modern circuitry the components and the circuit board pads (where the components attach) are very small, and it takes considerable skill not to botch a soldering job. In particular, you don't want to apply too much heat.

And yes...solder is part of the audiophile religon.

Herman...The intermingling of solder molecules and the wire material is a surface condition, and that's what makes the stuff stick.
From what I understand Cardas is the solder to use--IF it's a new joint. If it's a resoldering job then Kester's the one to use due to its better quality flux.

Eldart is correct regarding technique. There must be mechanical contact of the surfaces prior to soldering.
Eutectic solder is available from Kester (and several other manufacturers) for about $20 a spool. For an additional $50, you can get a spool with the Cardas label.
I've gotten a good recomendation on lead-free, Kester SN 96. Leaded solders are surely going to disappear sooner or later, and I can't believe lead has any sonic positives , no matter how much silver is tossed in.

Do not, do not learn to solder on your kit. You can't determine a true, perfect, mil-spec solder joint by eyeballing it; especially depending on your eyesight/age. Mil-spec joints are inspected one-by-one by a qualified inspector under a low power microscope. You'll also need to know about flux removal, down to the 100% level; also inspected.

You'll need to know about matching iron tip temp to the solder you're using, and the care and feeding of iron tips.