Antenna questions


Hi, I have a roofmounted FM-only omnidirectional antenna. It works great except for one station (important to my wife) which suffers from multipath distortion/static, so I am looking to install a directional in it's place.

1. APS is mentioned here, but their website says the antennas are non-returnable. I think it's pretty important to be able to try the antenna in your attic before installing on the roof, and return if necessary! Does anyone sell these antennas with return privileges?

2. The Radio Shack website has a chart that shows specs for their various antennas. "FM Gain" is 2.2 on the largest of the their antennas, and only 1.0 on the antennas (including a directional FM-only) that I am considering. What is up with that? Aren't directional antennas also high-gain? Should I worry about it? Since signal strength isn't a problem, maybe just a unity-gain directional is enough?

Thanks for any ideas.
ehart
SEan, thanks for the refresher on Q. The Hallicrafters has SIX selectable bandwiths (0.5kHz for code up to ultra-wide for "phono"...HA!), and an amazing selectable Q-adjustable "notch" filter to move in to squash a strong adjacent broadcast. Results in amazing bimodal bandwidth curves! Didn't know they could do that in the 50s...and with tubes....
So the APS must be a lot of similar-length elements all stacked in a plane, as 88-108 megs is only a 20% change in frequency. Interesting. But isn't the Rat Shack also a tight-Q for FM (but with less gain, of course)? Gotrta get back to Radio Rwanda with its 10dB S/N ratio! Talk about low fi....
The "basic" formula for a Yagi design is that the driven element is tuned to resonance in the center of the desired frequency range. The reflector is then tuned appr 5% longer than the driven element and placed behind it. Varying the space will affect the front to back ratio and forward gain. This is the most basic Yagi that one can build and have it work well.

To increase the gain, a director is added in front of the driven element. This is appr 5% shorter than the length of the driven element, making it 10% shorter than the reflector. If one wanted to increase gain further, you can add another director, which in turn would be another 5% shorter in length. This works well until you hit about 5 - 6 elements total ( 1 reflector, 1 driven element and 3 or 4 directors ). After that point, the boom becomes longer, wind load is increased and the increases in gain are not as sizeable.

As far as bandwidth goes, 20 MHz is actually quite wide in spectrum at that frequency range. As one goes up in frequency it is FAR easier to make an antenna that covers a a wide range and maintains good tuning / good gain. At the frequency range that we are at with FM, obtaining a 5 MHz bandspread with excellent tuning would be a very reasonable goal. As one strayed further away from the center of this band, antenna impedance and gain would begin to vary. As such, most antennas are tuned with a center frequency of appr 98 MHz ( middle of the FM band ) and performance is relatively lacking at the low end ( 88 MHz ) and top end (108 MHz ).

As such, if one really wanted to pull in specific stations within a certain frequency range, having an antenna made ( or making one yourself ) for that specific center frequency could result in noticeable improvements. The fact that many people are happy with indoor dipoles or simple "stick" antennas like the Magnum / Fanfare / Metz design ( that are not very broadband at all ) shows that a simple antenna can work quite well. More advanced designs simply give you even greater range with less noise and interference.

Other than that, some of the older, well designed receivers ( HF, shortwave, broadcast band, etc.. ) can work phenomenally well. Depending on how involved one wanted to get in terms of user adjustable controls, some of the "fossils" that are out there are actually "diamonds in the rough". The biggest advantage that i see to a well designed and highly tuned tube front end is that they are less prone to front end overload and adjacent channel interference. If one lived in the city near a lot of strong stations, that is probably what i would be looking for. Sean
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Hi gang,

Thanks for the good info, keep the comments coming!

I bought the $22 Radio Shack antenna and played with it extensively last night in my attic, to compare with the current roof-mount omnidirectional antenna. The public radio station in question now sounds "good" but not "very good" or "excellent". I can listen to it without going crazy. A few other stations now sound "very good" (good bass, very little static, good stereo separation) and one station verges on "excellent" (you forget you are listening to the radio).

OK, so a few more questions:

1. I guess I expected even better. I will have to decide whether I can stomach the size of the ALPS antennas. Any votes for Wineguard or others?

2. I wonder if my Adcom GTP-506 and my old Technics receiver are part of the problem. How much better can a tuner do at rejecting multipath, in particular? Anyone know the Adcom tuners?

3. There are a few stations that are much worse off with the directional antenna (they're in the other direction). How bad an idea is it to attach two antennas to the same tuner? An omni or a dipole in addition to the main antenna? Can you just connect two atennas to the same terminals, or would you need some sort of "blending" device?

Thanks for all the interest!

- Eric
Eric you'd need a tuner with an internal antenna switch for two inputs (Magnum Dynalab MD102 is the one I use, but there are others) or attach an external coaxial antenna switchbox (going back to RadioShack).
No you cannot connect the two antennas together.
Although I'm unfamiliar, your Adcom / Technics units can certainly be improved upon.
Another option for additional gain up to +30dB is the Magnum Dynalab Signal Sleuth model MD205. Lists around $250; available discounted. The Sleuth is a tunable preselector with variable gain / loss as required. The Sleuth not only provides additional gain as needed, but can be offset-tuned or the gain-reduced even into a lossy mode, for rejecting undesired signals as required. Two knobs on the front panel make this easy, combined with the tuner's tuning & multipath meters.
To answer some of Eric's other questions. Yes, The Winegard
is a serious antenna. I'm using the HD6065 with a Fanfare
FT-1A tuner and it works extremely well.

Get the antenna up as high as possible but be careful not
to get near power lines! (Where will the antenna and mast
fall if the wind blows it over?)

Also, if you live in area that is prone to thunderstorms,
you MUST ground the mast and line - and unplug it from your
tuner during bad weather.

As long as yoou are up on the roof, install a rotor (or
rotator). It can really make a difference and it's cool
watching your 10 foot antenna rotate ;-) I use a Channel
Master 9521A.

John.