Spikes versus Rubber on wood floor?

MarkPhd Thanks for your input. I have been scanning threads for awhile but found them confusing, particularly when you add in the different needs of different components and types of flooring, so I thought I would post just for my speaker application.
Frankly I still am confused. I guess there is no clear consensus of spikes versus Tenderfeet type cones. It would seem to me that spikes if they are indeed able to draw out vibration from the cabinet would then vibrate the wood beneath and the adjoining spikes would act as a megaphone and transmit it back to the cabinet. Yet any type of soft rubber would allow the cabinet to move (jiggle). It leaves me wondering why something that is more inert and sound insulating yet not metalic such as styofoam would not work better.
WTB do you know who sells superspike?

The listening areas in all my houses have had oak floor over subfloor over wood joists. I have found cones to perform fine with my larger sized speakers. I also have used Sound Anchor stands with all of my speakers for added weight, stability and protection of the speaker base. I like cones better than skinny spikes or rubber type footers. Wellfed, I find it interesting you like the Fat Black Dots better than Audio Points, and would be curious to hear what improvements you noticed. BTW, are the Black Dots similar in substance to a hockey puck, harder, or softer?

To protect the floor, I have used Sound Anchor Cone Coasters [http://www.soundanchors.com/page20.html], a stainless steel disk with a small point for the cone tip and a special teflon type pad on the bottom. These also allow you to slide the speaker around to position it without damaging the floor.

I wouldn't worry too much about positioning over the joists. You have large heavy speakers with an 11 by 24 inch footprint, so your floor/subfloor combination should distribute the load over at least two to three of the floor joists regardless of your specific positioning. If the house is old, so that the subfloor was not originally glued down, you may want to use some fasteners from underneath to anchor the subfloor to the tops of the joists in the area of the speakers (this is commonly done to eliminate floor creaking in older houses). Another thing you can do if you can get to the underside of the floor, is to add perpindicular bracing between joists in the area of the speakers.

A last consideration nobody has yet mentioned on this thread is that some have reported good results using Symposium Svelte Shelf platforms under speakers. They can also be used between speakers and stands, which I have been curious about trying. Let us know what works for you.

On my hardwood floors I tried most of the suggestions listed here. What I found worked best for me and my floor was to use the small clear soft plastic (Home Depot or Lowe's) furniture floor protectors. Along with the sand in the bottom, they don't move either from speaker play or family walking (kids running/jumping) nearby.

Mt thats an interesting suggestion. I like the sand part as it should not transfer vibration and the price is right

Hi Gammajo. I thought your handle was familiar. You posted a thread on 02-06-05 titled "Spikes versus wall coupling". There are over 40 responses on that thread on vibration isolation, some from pros in the field. If you revisit the comments there, I can't add anything more. My posts on that thread also contain a reference to a website which have pictures of, and sell, Superspikes.