Calling Aerial 20T owners

thanks to all of your input, I will continue to optimize my system while locating a powerful solid state to experiment. if solid state is the answer, not sure what I will do though...

Given your Einstein gear, I would consider the Parasound JC-1 monoblocks, which are a truly differential balanced design. I think they are one of the tiny handful of high-powered solid-state designs that is truly great sounding. In addition, their price / performance / build quality ratio is off the charts due to offshore manufacturing.

As for tube amps, perhaps the obvious choice is the CAT monoblocks, which have the best output transformers and largest power supplies I am aware of in regular production tube amps. My VAC Renaissance 140's can also drive 1-2 Ohm loads and would also work well, but they will not have the oomph of the CAT's, which are 192 lb. snarling beasts that were designed to drive the 83 db. efficient, impedence-psychotic MBL 101's. The downside to the CAT's is the need for very carefully selected output tubes that can withstand the hotrod circuit (my friend nicknamed his JL-1's the "popcorn popper" for what it could do to output tubes). The JL-1 Limited Edition is the best iteration of these amps, featuring all point-to-point wiring (later versions used boards) and output transformers that weigh something like 55 lbs. each - they retailed for $50k and can now be found for $12k-$13k used because people don't know what they are.

I find the bass to be a bit plummy on the V1, and as a consequence, the Parasound or the CAT monoblocks, both of which exert tremendous control in the face of tough loads, would be smart choices.

Parasound JC1 is on my radar, I just missed one out locally.

I have not heard CAT, but all the reviews and feedback I read are positive except the tube requirement as you pointed out. they produce tremendous amount of heat due to number of tubes use, they don't have XLR input either which will require new investment in IC. between CAT and Parasound, JC1 is the easier route and not too expensive to try.

anyone ever try class D amps on 20T? Rowland is considered class D, but it has analog power supply so it's more of a hybrid.

The CAT amps do not run hot and you would not necessarily have to change interconnects - Neutrix makes very good XLR to RCA convertors that are only about $15/pair if you're smart enough to buy them from an electronics supply store (as opposed to some audiophile outfit that rebrands them and charges 10x more). I use them with a 25 ft. balanced IC when I run my VAC amp. The problem with the CAT amps is output tubes that blow. When one goes, it takes out a resistor, which must be soldered out and a new one soldered in. If each monoblock did not weigh 192 lbs., this would perhaps not be such a big deal, but they are large and weigh a ton, so if you can't solder, you have to schlep them to a repair tech. My friend who had JL-1's recently wrote "In the end, I think those amps are suitable only for someone who has ... skill with a soldering iron and does not mind undertaking a resistor soldering exercise at least once or twice a year. You need that AND the patience/wallet to finance a new set of 16 output tubes about every nine months or so."

I agree that the Parasounds would be the easier move and they are very, very good, but the CAT, especially the balls-out JL-1 Limited Edition, is an amazing amp if you have some patience.

The Rowland 300 series Class D amps, especially the original version with the straight analog power supply, are okay, but the performance of the 201/501 series Class D amps depends largely upon the quality of your home A/C power supply (and thus could sound lousy, especially on a speaker with a ribbon tweeter). The Rowland Model 6 monoblocks, especially if offered with the battery power supplies, are excellent amps (not to mention fully differential balanced).

Congrats with some wonderful speakers! I have lived with my 20Ts now in two years and absolutely love them. They definately deserve great gear and some powerful amps!

I have tried (and lived with) the following amps on mye 20Ts in this order:
* Jeff Rowland 501 monos (4 x for biamping) - much power, but too dry sounding, not musical enough for my taste.
* Theta Citadel - incredible amps, very musical, warm sounding, but not the latest word in resolution and dynamics. Still a very good match with the 20Ts. I would pick these over any tube amp for the 20Ts I think.
* Jeff Rowland 301 monos - the amps I have now and by far the best. More neutral and transparent than the Citadels, faster, even better dynamics and bass control and much more resolved. Delivers a huge and seductive sound on my 20Ts.

For fun I have also tried the Cary V12 monos(100watt) on my 20Ts, but that was awful. Too little power! My advice is to stay away from tubes on these speakers unless you go for some megawatt tube amps like the big VTLs or similar.

I have recently stepped up to Burmester reference front end gear (I have the latest 069 cd and 077 pre) and I find that the 20Ts are up to the task. I am amazed! Definately some speakers you can grow with.

I also have a room at size 14 x 18 and have Daad and Auralex acoustic treatments. I have bass set to "0" position and also have a pair of SW12 subs. I use the speaker level input on the SW12s (which is way better than the line level inputs for music). The bass I have is very tight, deep and firm. A guy who works with acoustic treatments visited my and said he was chocked. He had never heard so good sound anywhere in a private home before ...:)

In my experience it is almost always best to toe-in speakers, so also with 20Ts. In this way you also get less side wall issues. I have tried some different angles, but have ended up with toe-in so much that the speakers point directly to a point about 1/2 feet behind my ears.