Full Range Drivers

If jazz and vocals are your thing, then a widerange driver system is really gonna float your boat. If the Super-12 ends up being the one, shoot me an email and I'll cut you a great deal on the unused kit I have(w/ upgraded tweeters)

there is a nice pair of cardersound ninas listed in the classifieds. look at that, i have them, and supplemented witha dayton sub they are the system that thrills me the most. multiple other systems (acoustic zen, linn aktiv, totem)

Darkmoebius, does your kit have the Fostex Bullet Tweeter? What does putting that kit together entail?

Well, all I can say is that there is an exceptional single driver made by Feastrex that can be used to cover from about 60 Hz to well above 20K Hz. Actually there are two different drivers, one 5" and one 9." The 5" is the better driver and especially in the field coil version. I heard it in the Maxhorn cabinet and was thoroughly please except below 60 Hz. I have spent a good part of my audio life trying to mate subwoofers with such "not full range" speakers. I don't think it can be done.

These drivers are very expensive. I think $39k per pair. I cannot imagine anyone buying them at that price.

Yep, Donjr, I have Fostex FT17H Horn Super Tweeter and the original Audax tweet that came with the kit.

As you've probably already read, the 98.5dB Fostex more closely matches the Super-12's 97db efficiency and only requires minor padding down to integrate well. On top of that, it actually sounds better.

01-27-10: Donjr
Darkmoebius...What does putting that kit together entail?

Darn, I used to have a .pdf copy of the manual on my computer, but I cannot find it. The printed manual is in the kit box in storage.

Essentially, you need only 2(or 3) pieces of 4'x8' mdf wood, wood clamps/straps, table saw, wood glue, and some screws. A router(and roundover but) is best for the port hole and driver cutout, but they can be done with a jigsaw. The speaker plans are designed so that all panels and bracing come off the 2 sheets leaving no real scrap. So, you cut the 4 side panels and two top off each 4'x8' along with 4 1"-2" strips for vertical corner bracing/screw in.

I'm not real good with a table saw, so I spent a lot more time stressing over getting straight cuts than need be. But, it really didn't take that long once I got going. It probably took me an hour or two to trace out and make the cuts, including the port hole and driver cutout. Assembly after that is pretty quick if you've got clamps and/or wood straps to hold the cabinet together while the glue dries.

Some people added extra thin strips of ebony(?) strips diagonally across the largest panels to break up and tame resonances. I added Deflex sound panels in mine behind the 12" driver to absorb and break up reflections from the back of the driver off the back wall. Also some Wispermat on the walls(not completely covered). Both these products absorbed reflections AND deadened the panel resonances. Also, the plumbers putty on the speaker spider. This brought a much higher level of refinement to the sound.

I think I still have 2 extra Deflex pads to go with the kit.