Vintage DD turntables. Are we living dangerously?


I have just acquired a 32 year old JVC/Victor TT-101 DD turntable after having its lesser brother, the TT-81 for the last year.
TT-101
This is one of the great DD designs made at a time when the giant Japanese electronics companies like Technics, Denon, JVC/Victor and Pioneer could pour millions of dollars into 'flagship' models to 'enhance' their lower range models which often sold in the millions.
Because of their complexity however.......if they malfunction.....parts are 'unobtanium'....and they often cannot be repaired.
halcro
Fleib,

When you say VTF adjuster 'lock' are you referring to the locking nut that allows the shaft to freely move up and down? There is a nut that attaches the arm to the arm board. Then there is a nut that unlocks the arm shaft that would allows the shaft to freely move up and down when opened. When you 'unlock' it, hold on to the arm because it will freely fall and bottom out. You use that one to get the working end of the cartridge into the 'general' VTA area. Once both of those nuts are locked into place, then you can use the 'numbered' VTA adjuster +/- thumb wheel device to fine tune VTA.
To do the initial set up, I set the +/- thumb wheel in the center of its +/- range. There are arrows to define this position. Then loosen the locking nut while holding onto the arm so it doesn't drop down freely, then roughly position the arm where I think it should go, lock the nut, the do the final VTA settings. Once you have done this a couple of times, you kind of get the feel for where the shaft should be located when you lock the nut. If it was set (locked), with the arm too low, you will be forced to use only one end of the
+/- scale. Too high, you will be forced to use the other end of the scale. I shoot for a general 'center' position of the +/- scale. I shoot for that position mainly because of all the different height cartridges that I have.
Regards,
Don
Halcro.
In the manual of the ET2 Bruce Thigpen claims that a pivoted arm contributes to wow and flutter due to its geometry.

The TT-101 has exceptional figures in this area.
Since you have a rig with 3 arms, it would be interesting to run 3 consecutive tests of say 1 minute each with the three arms. This to to see if there is any difference. Each arm has different geometry, so if Bruce is correct, we may expect to see a difference between the three readings.

Purely for academic interest.
Technics SP10 Mk3

No affiliation with listing party but thought you guys would be interested

Good Listening

Peter
If anyone was interested in an SP10 Mk3, this one may be better value as it includes tonearm and base...
Halcro.

I re-read my last post and realise that it could be misinterpreted. Clarification here...

BT suggests that when accessing speed accuracy with a pivoted arm, the measured performance is inferior to the actual performance. This due to the geometry of a pivoted arm.

Since you have a rig with three different arms, it would be of interest to run three sequential tests to see if there are any measured differences.
If there are, maybe we could infer that the TT-101 is actually better than the readings indicate.