Update: I recently received a new paddle assembly from KAB, to replace the original that I busted by accident. During the interem while awaiting my new paddle's arrival, I was reminded, in the first absence of active damping from my tonearm since I started this thread, just how much this modification does for the sound.
Anyway, it turns out that the old, outsourced plastic paddle (which attached to the tonearm by means of a hinged plastic collar with plastic thumbscrew, that fitted around the armtube) has been replaced by one of Kevin Barrett's own design, nicely made (like the fluid trough) of machined aluminum to match the turntable chassis deck. I don't know how long this upgrade has been in effect, but now that I have it I wanted to report on it.
The new paddle attaches, by means of a machined-slot/metal set-screw combination (again similar to the trough and the way it attaches to the base of the stationary gimbal support), not to the hollow armtube itself, but to the small, solid cast-aluminum side-arm that protrudes inward from the bearing-housing piece that carries the armtube, whose regular function is to interface with the hydraulic arm-lift actuator.
This is an ingenious solution (that doesn't interfere with the arm-lift), and because it's constructed of one solid aluminum piece, should last forever (unlike, as I found out, the former plastic version). And not only is its appearance more integrated with the turntable, it also looks to me like this paddle presents a larger surface area for the fluid in the trough to act upon.
(See a
photo here -- the KAB paddle is just below and to the right of the locked armrest, although you can't see its business end from this vantage point. The armlift actuator -- as opposed to the lever -- is the curved black rubber-topped piece nestled behind the curved aluminum KAB damper fluid trough.)
Unlike the previous paddle however, which could be rotated about the tonearm to achieve different immersion angles and depths into the viscous silicone damping fluid, the user cannot adjust this new paddle -- it has one fixed, presumably correct, position. That's fine with me -- one less thing to play around with and get wrong. You can still adjust the level of the fluid in the trough as you wish to control the total amount of immersion and therefore damping.
The only downside of this arrangement is that you also lose the ability to rotate the paddle out of the trough entirely in order to make balancing of cartridges go quicker. (Of course you can't simply remove the paddle from the tonearm since subtracting its weight would change the balance.)
So if you don't like rebalancing your cartridge/headshell swaps with the paddle still in the fluid, the only way to go is to remove the trough itself, a bit more of a hassle which probably means (if you're not to risk making a sticky mess with the silicone) carefully removing and cleaning the paddle first, then removing the trough, then reinstalling the paddle and setting your balance, then going through the reverse to reinstall the trough. Personally, when I installed my replacement paddle for the first time, I just lived with it being immersed in the fluid -- since my trough was already installed and filled -- and simply allowed the required extra settling time when setting the tonearm balance, and this is what I'd suggest you do too for any rebalancings after the initial setup. (After all, the tonearm is ulitmately going to be played with the paddle in the fluid, so why not leave it there for set-up too?)
I suppose the only other reservations that some fanatic (like me) might come up with about the new paddle is that its attachment point has moved about half an inch closer-in to the pivot-point from before (theoretically, the ideal damping point would be out at the headshell, far away from the pivot), and the fact that the damper no longer attaches directly to the armtube itself, but to a separate piece that is in turn attached to the armtube. But I think these items are probably of about zero importance all told. (Oh, and you will need more than your fingers to install this version of the paddle, you will need the correct Allen key, same one as for attaching the trough -- lock your tonearm first and use the short end, the clearance is a bit tight but it's no problem if you go slowly and use appropriate care.)
If you own an older TD-1200 damper with the plastic paddle, it's an under-$30 upgrade to switch to the current version, and one I would recommend purely for aesthetic and durability reasons. (As you may have surmised, I can't do a direct sonic comparison between the new paddle and my old one, since that's both broken and thrown away, but puh-leeze...I wouldn't bother anyway.) As a possible bonus on the side, assuming the metal paddle is unavoidably somewhat heavier that the plastic one, if your cartridge is slightly too lightweight to use with Technics' screw-in auxillary counterweight attachment, you might be able to do it with this paddle attached. Adding the auxillary counterweight, and the resulting repositioning of the main counterweight closer to the pivot-point, could have a side-effect of favorably impacting residual tonearm resonance.
On the other hand, if you have a Technics 1200 (or are thinking of buying one) but haven't gotten Kevin's damper kit yet, you should know that he hasn't raised the price since introducing the new paddle, even though I'd imagine his cost for engineering and subcontracting manufacture of this bespoke part has got to have taken a bite out of his bottom line. So nice job KAB of making a good product better while holding the line on the price.