B&W 'New' 800 Series


I've reviewed the TAS Factory Tour and the 802 D3 details and am impressed with all improvements; and the common sense used.
I also find the new styling very intelligent related to dispersion. Comments?
ptss
Well, I just skimmed through the online 802 D3 manual out of curiosity. Can't find anything. Unless somebody can tell us the setup info is in their actual hardcopy manual for any of the d2, d3 models - 800, 802,803,804,805.... I really don't understand why B&W doesn't put this kind of critical set up information in BOLD in the owners manual.    

Here is some more 802 d2,d3 setup info from Patrick of B&W sourced from the Web.

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When adjusting rake (tilting forward or back in the vertical plane) you should always start with making the speakers plumb using a level. I used a standard level that has multiple gauges so it can be used vertically or horizontally. The front baffle can be used to adjust rake forward and back, and the side of the speaker (bass cabinet) can be used for adjusting side to side. Once both channels are plumb, then you can being adjusting them for a given listening height and distance.

Imagine a sphere projected 9'10" in front of each speaker. Localized within that sphere is the optimal alignment of all drivers. What you are in essence trying to do is to adjust each channel independently so that both spheres perfectly focus in a listening area. With this in mind, it is time to start listening. Throw on a recording of a woman singing with a bass accompaniment if possible. As you sit in your listening chair move a little to the left and focus on that channel. Move your head slowly up so that you begin to listen above the tweeters axis, and then down through that axis until you are a bit below that midrange axis. You'll hear an area where there is a perfect balance between mid and upper frequencies. You'll notice that it sounds both clear and natural (a balance of upper to mid frequencies.

Once you locate that spot, you can adjust the front spikes to shift that area to a height that corresponds with your head. You won't need a large adjustment, so go slowly. Once you've taken care of the left channel, all you need to do is adjust the right channel to match. Also pay attention to the bass. If bass quality is negatively impacted, you might have gone a bit too far in your adjustment. Simply back off a bit and you should find that bass quality returns, and the critical alignment of all other drivers is achieved.

That is the simple explanation.

Regards,

Patrick
B&W Group North America

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This kind of info only applies to a few of us nuts....and is probably over the head of most average users.  Even Wilson Audio relegates this kind of installation info to it's dealers or installation team.
This kind of info only applies to a few of us nuts....and is probably over the head of most average users.


I agree, but the longer a person remains a member here; they become nuts too. It's really called AudioGon(e) - the "e" is silent.

Even Wilson Audio relegates this kind of installation info to it's dealers or installation team.


Yes, but B&W doesn't only offer one level of speakers to customers like Wilson. B&W is just too good a business and marketing company to be able to resist offering the lower speaker models, and other products. 

I recall about 20 years ago? if you registered any speaker with B&W online, they sent you a really nice shiny metallic B&W key chain.  I wonder if Bo gives his customers a key chain ? :^) 

Burgeoning audiophiles, (a dying breed?) start out with the lower models. They need this setup info. Its in B&W's interest to provide it. Customers will get more enjoyment with better setup, and are more likely to move up the brand, or hang on to what they have longer. 

Anyway, I can look look at all my owners manuals over the years from the likes of B&W. ARC, Classe, Krell, etc... in the old days the manuals contained valuable information (design, technical info, measurements). Manuals have been dumbed down, and the 80 page manual is now 8 different languages and the English section is 6 or 7 pages.
True...sign of the times.  Listen on CT0517...is that your serial number?  Your not a robot are you?
Dave_b .....is that your serial number? Your not a robot are you?


lol - no Dave just my initials followed by I think the month and day I joined the other crazies here officially. Unfortunately not a lot of thought went into my moniker; unlike some others here who have great monikers. :^)

You know its funny, some folks on forums are very personal, while others are shy and want to stick to their monikers.
I am good either way.

Cheers Chris

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These are the bass frequency numbers for the D3’s.
17hz   802 D3
19hz   803 D3
20hz   804 D3

I guess the 800 d3 will probably be around 15hz. B&W being marketing kings are waiting till next year to introduce them, (imo) to extend the new design intro.
Brilliant !  

As a matter of curiosity and wanting to learn; I would be interested to know from those that have already heard them, or get a chance to hear them soon.

  • The Model of D3 used. 
  • Was a subwoofer used. If yes - how did they sound with and without a sub/s,  with full range music. 
  • Room Size and type of floor. 
Was it a poured concrete floor like in shopping malls/strip mall ground floor unit/house basement ;  or was it suspended wood beam (common in boutique high end retail stores who may be using a renovated two story older home or building.  

The D3 and all B&W 800 series floor models since matrix bracing was introduced, coupled to a wood floor with spikes;  will really rock the suspended floor as all excess energy is being drained down through the spikes. Play at your loudest SPL’s and feel the cabinet. You feel little if any vibration at all. Unlike speakers that by design vibrate and resonate through their cabinets as well. Two different design approaches.
 
I will provide observations as well if I get the opportunity.

Cheers