Vintage DD turntables. Are we living dangerously?


I have just acquired a 32 year old JVC/Victor TT-101 DD turntable after having its lesser brother, the TT-81 for the last year.
TT-101
This is one of the great DD designs made at a time when the giant Japanese electronics companies like Technics, Denon, JVC/Victor and Pioneer could pour millions of dollars into 'flagship' models to 'enhance' their lower range models which often sold in the millions.
Because of their complexity however.......if they malfunction.....parts are 'unobtanium'....and they often cannot be repaired.
128x128halcro

Halcro, Thanks for the tip, I figured as much. Does your new design change the attachment of the motor unit to the base?  I was thinking of bolting it on and using compressed sorbothane washers.

It will be awhile before I can get it together. Right now I'm devising a scheme for the actual build.

Regards,

Fleib,
I still just rest the TT-101 on three butyl rubber pads stuck to the granite cradle...
http://i.imgur.com/h673918.jpg
They are the same as the ones I had on the stainless steel cradle...
http://i.imgur.com/UuEyECm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qEWvSHn.jpg
I figure that the 10Kg weight of the motor unit resting on the hard rubber pads creates enough friction not to move and also allows me to remove the TT-101 from the cradle very easily.

Your thought of bolting and sorbothane washers is probably better although the more compressed the sorbothane becomes.....the more 'coupled' to the substrate the turntable becomes, which could possibly colour the sound?
Good luck and please keep us informed of your progress...

Interesting.  There are quite a few things to figure out and it would be easier to incorporate them in the initial build, then to add-on later.  If I want to bolt the motor unit to the structure I should embed threaded inserts and have space beneath to accommodate the bolts.

This Kenwood ARCB stuff will probably be like working with clay or epoxy putty. I should be able to add on layers.  I know you can drill/cut it, although a little messy. Polyester resin is auto body patch material (Bondo), and I'll have to experiment with mixing and sculpting. Seems a whole lot easier to drop it in a plinth. 

I could build a better (than stock) plinth and I wonder if the pod approach is worth the extra trouble.  I'd have to make arm pods as well. 

Still mulling this over, but pods are intriguing.  I also have an old Sota Sapphire I don't use cause it can't keep proper speed.  If I podify that w/new motor, I could have 2 set-ups and 4 or 6 arms and sell a few tables. Sounds like a plan.

Guys, Do what you want.  I'll love you anyway, even Halcro.  By the way, I have never tried jumping off my roof, but I have a fairly strong hypothesis regarding the outcome of doing so and therefore, I won't try it.  (That's an exaggeration of course; I do not regard using an outboard arm pod with the same skepticism and dread that I view the idea of jumping off my roof.  And I totally agree with Halcro, if you do it, use as massive an arm pod as is practical, along with a massive plinth.  If you do it that way, the difference between my preference and Halcro's is minimal.) Anyway, who said I never owned a tt with an outboard arm pod?
Ahh Lewm......the Master of illogical analogies.
Firstly we have the "rowboat in the floating sea" analogy whereby the stable platform of your shelf or rack is likened to the unruly fluid of the sea and the vibrations which uniformly affect the rigid shelf are compared to the multifarious currents and winds acting on a thermal fluid in constant motion.
In this ludicrous juxtaposition.....he then places two separate boats instead of one contiguous raft...
But now Lewm surpasses himself....the results of a person jumping off a roof are well known to be less than happy whereas the results of a person using outboard armpods are so far universally 'happy'. So how goes the analogy....❓

But I also can be somewhat amused with "thought experiments"
The Kenwood L-07D
http://i.imgur.com/VvgdWQi.jpg
which directly connects its platter bearing to its tonearm support via a cast aluminium structure, condemns the fixed mounting dimension of the tonearm to expand and contract with changes in temperature. Over a 10 centigrade degree range, this dimension could possibly change by a few millimetres rendering your carefully executed arm geometry useless.
Furthermore....connecting the arm support directly to the supporting spindle of the platter, inevitably transfers all the vibrations of the revolving platter into the arm base, a design failure of mammoth proportion.
The belief that all turntable designers (and designs) of the past were competent is a demonstrable unfortunate absurdity.