No bass with new turntable?

As I figured and many did, "listen for ...hours" would not help the main issue. 
The low price tag perhaps made manufacturer(or dealer) be negligent to details and quality of assembly and setup.
If you have tiny pliers something like in Leatherman pocket tool I'd carefully remove all cartridge clips and crimp them slightly more to make sure that they provide nice and tight connection to the cartridge pins. Be super careful not to rip them off the headshell and always use pliers when taking off and fitting back on. I'd also check carefully alignment and properly set-up VTF with tools to check and fix manufacturer or dealer negligent setup. If you go to turntablebasics.com, you'll be able to find basic tools to properly align cartridge and tracking weight. With new wires I'd work on research first. I don't know any market for outboard interconnects with thin gauge for turntable. Basically you'd want the same thickness of wires as going out from your arm on the interconnects. You'd also want minimal per-unit capacitance of wire, because for the MM cartridge it's crucial and not so for MC. For your reference, find out the electrical parameters of the stock interconnects you're using from manufacturer.
 Years back they used to be available in conventional electronic stores with ground wire attached, now I've seen some on internet (needledoctor) at price tag 4x higher than your whole analogue setup. If you don't want to tense your wallet and save a lot without loosing performance of your system, I use http://www.gepco.com/products/proav_cable/analog_audio/singdual_xband_F.htm. This cable is easy to fit safely onto the RCA jacks and provides low-to-no noise signal transfer with great dynamics. I'm sure that it will outperform your stock interconnects if properly terminated. For best results use http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nf2c-b-2-profi-professional-rca-plug-pair--092-114 Neutrik Pro-Fi connectors that are very easy to terminate and lockable.

Wetfeet, I like Class A. Profligate use of power, but commensurately clean sound. With ESL's you really hear it.

[Heresy alert] By the way, my electronics are all solid state, full complementary designs. The electronics may not sound the best, but the system does. That is because the amps can be designed so that they cannot overdrive the speakers into protection - and that means that performance robbing protection circuits are necessary, and if present, can be removed with impunity.

Which explains the paradox: even if the amps are not the absolute best, the system as a whole has been optimized. 

Very interesting and ambitious quest terry9, as it would seem darn near impossible to improve upon the characteristics of the Bryston. That's quite an accomplishment, would love to hear your system and compare the sonic qualities to my (now) Class D/tube hybrid. 

If you have tiny pliers something like in Leatherman pocket tool I’d carefully
remove all cartridge clips and crimp them slightly more to make sure that they provide nice and tight connection to the cartridge pins. Be super careful not to rip them off the headshell and always use pliers when taking off and fitting back on. I’d also check carefully alignment and properly set-up VTF with tools to check and fix manufacturer or dealer negligent setup. If you go to turntablebasics.com, you’ll be able to find basic tools to properly align cartridge and tracking weight. With new wires I’d work on research first. I don’t know any market for outboard interconnects with thin gauge for turntable. Basically you’d want the same thickness of wires as going out from your arm on the interconnects. You’d also want minimal per-unit capacitance of wire, because for the MM cartridge it’s crucial and not so for MC. For your reference, find out the electrical parameters of the stock interconnects you’re using from manufacturer.
Years back they used to be available in conventional electronic stores with ground wire attached, now I’ve seen some on internet (needledoctor) at price tag 4x higher than your whole analogue setup. If you don’t want to tense your wallet and save a lot without loosing performance of your system, I use http://www.gepco.com/products/proav_cable/analog_audio/singdual_xband_F.htm. This cable is easy to fit safely onto the RCA jacks and provides low-to-no noise signal transfer with great dynamics. I’m sure that it will outperform your stock interconnects if properly terminated. For best results use http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nf2c-b-2-profi-professional-rca-plug-pair--092-114 Neutrik Pro-Fi connectors that are very easy to terminate and lockable.

Great info and links, thanks! I opened them, looks like great stuff, the spark has been fueled to improve the cabling. Perfect mod for the table. And at a good time, get this - after the last loose cable incident, last night I was listening to an LP and noticed a buzzing hum during quiet passages, drove me crazy turning things on and off throughout the house, nothing. Finally directed my attention to the TT, dreaded the infamous hum I’ve read about but supposedly gone with this model, fiddled with the RCA cable in back of the unit and whamo, instantly gone. Strangely it wasn’t the ground cable. So, regardless of sound quality I’m going to replace all the cabling for the table, just to make sure it is absolutely right.
I wonder if it would be a good idea to just do 1 long run from the cart to the amp and bypass the inner connection of tonearm to RCA?

It's good idea to do a solid run from arm to rca jacks.
There are many options available. Buzz may be from loose cartridge clips. I also suspect assembly quality to the RCA recepticles. 

I know it's been over a month since anyone was on this thread but I thought I'd mention I had continuing problems with the crappy included interconnects, mostly ground hum and a loose inner connection at the RCA point. Just by touching it I would get crackling etc. So in the end I opted to order a pretty economical cable as opposed to making it, as I had planned. It was all of 40 bucks from a flea bay seller who mostly markets them towards Thoren users for some reason. They were considerably thicker yet flexible, shielded, and very nice Neutrik connectors. The surprising thing is that after installing the cable, and I thought it would just stop the crackling/him, the bass was much better, and everything quiet. I'm not starting a cable debate or saying everyone should buy expensive cables, but I will say a good quality, well made cable seems much better than the bottom of the barrel cheapo that often comes with gear. Personally, I'd rather just pay a little more upfront for a better interconnect.
So I think between the two cable/connection problems, I've come full swing from an initial feeling of buyer's remorse, to thoroughly enjoying the table at this point. Toe tapping fun.