fuse damage

The Roger Modjeski quote in which he explains what he means by the term, High Breaking, which apparently is the issue he is all hung up on.  Now, please correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't his definition mean he has heartburn about ALL GLASS FUSES including stock fuses or ANY fuse that's not filled with sand?  HEL-loo!

"I have previously defined these terms, however I will again as those posts have been Quarantined. We currently have more posts in the hospital than any other forum.

You are correct, the fuse must not allow plasma to form. It is therefore filled with sand or some other material to fill the space when the fuse element vaporizes. It is not so much about voltage rating. I think 32 volt fuses are made differently from 125 volt fuses so as to have less loss at low voltages as they typically have elements that are wide at the ends and narrow in the center thus reducing resistance which is important in a low voltage circuit. Given that I feel 32 volt fuses would be a good choice for speaker fuses where high breaking is not an issue at all.

I get more questions about the voltage ratings on fuses than any other parameter. In actuality it is the least important parameter.

The responses from vendors and manufacturers have displayed no knowledge of these requirements at all. The respondents have missed the target entirely."

Rodger Modjeski only reccomends using a hardware store fuse in one special location- the tube protection circuit in one of HIS designed amplifiers. I can not find other reports of audio grade fuses failing to blow.

In fact there are multiple reports of using the correctly rated fuse and having it blow due to the circuit's normal energy use. So if anything the fuses are more protective than hardware store fusses. I have blown two audio fuses while fuse rolling in warmed up equipment and popping fuses in and out for quick comparisons. So do not do that!

I have three different audio systems to maintain. Three tube amps, three subwoofers, two solid state SACD players, one solid state DAC.

I have never had a component damaged by using an audio grade fuse.

I do hope everyone reading this forum will audition at least one audio grade fuse in their system. I found the sonic improvements to be significant in every system I own.

I especially like the Synergistic Research Black fuse for it's sonic qualities and the fact it comes with a 30 day money back policy. But the bottom line is the use of ordinary fuses are a major impediment to maximum music enjoyment!  Try an audio grade fuse. I think you will be glad you did.

David Pritchard

I think installing a single fuse in, say, a pre-amp, would be worth the $50 price, even if it were not returnable. Installing eight of them in a power amp running eight output power tubes, at a cost of $400 (!), maybe not! But if one can audition them with a money-back guarantee, why not? I would insure the tubes have no shorts before doing so, that's for sure!

a fuse that does its job can not make a system fail,. a fuses only purpose is to protect the unit.
Keep in mind that it is not only a matter of value but there are fast and slow type fuses, this is very important and should always be specified by the manufacturer

I have tons of experience with fuses a steel fuse has 7x more resistance then a Silver fuse ,a standard steel fuse can vary in  accuracy over 15% which is a lot .
A Hifi tunjng fuses for example is accurate within 1%. This is why many times 
A fuse would pop is exactly the same depending how close the MFG goes with a fuse. I usually go up slightly if possible if fuse blows with aftermarket fuse.

In no way will a Hifi tunjng fuses damage a Amplifier. Any proper built piece of electronics should have a minimum 20-25% over voltage protection built into it 
For protection. Gryphon is a veryoung good product. Go with the fuse the recommend sonicly after about 75 hours thd fuse will be runin inner detail as well as low level detail will be improved.