15A vs. 20A power cord questions


I'm installing dedicated 20A lines with 10AWG cable and Furutech GTX-D 20A wall receptacles. I am currently using the standard IEC power cords that came with my Rogue Cronus Magnum and VPI Scout 1.1. 

I rather not upgrade the power cables at this time. I would like to see the effect the dedicated lines and outlets have first. Are there any issues with running 15A power cords into a 20A outlet and line? Would a 20A power cord possibly sound better or is it just a matter of the blade orientation?
asp307

It does not take 6-8 months as mentioned above "assuming" you connect constant current drain devices (amps, house fans, etc..) to them and leave them powered on 24x7.

LOL.... You might want to take the time and reread my posts. The 6 to 8 months time frame is if the OP turned on and listened to his system on average 2 hours a day and then the amp was turned off. Surely you are not recommending the OP leave his tube amp on 24/7. That would be just silly.

Burn-in hours are burn-in hours.

Whether 2 hours a day on average, 500 / 2 = 250 days / 30 avg days in a month = 8 months. OR 2 hours X 7 days = 14 hours a week. 500 hours burn-in time / 14 = 35.7 / 4.5 weeks in a month = 7.9 months. 8 months.

OR

A box fan load running 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. 7 X 24 = 168 hours.

500 / 168 = 2.98. 3 weeks, not 6 or 8 months.

Regarding the phono-pre, this is down the line. I currently only use an integrated and a turntable. Which duplex should the turntable be plugged in to?

Will a burned-in/not burned-in receptacle make a difference for the turntable motor?

Do I need to burn-in each of the 4 receptacles. For instance, just because i’m running a box fan in one receptacle, that is not burning-in the entire duplex, correct?


Regarding the phono-pre, this is down the line. I currently only use an integrated and a turntable. Which duplex should the turntable be plugged in to?

Not knowing anything about a VPI TT motor I would not plug it into the same duplex receptacle as the amp. That’s just my opinion.


Will a burned-in/not burned-in receptacle make a difference for the turntable motor?

I doubt it. Again, just my opinion.

I don’t know why you couldn’t plug the TT motor into the non dedicated branch circuit receptacle you were using for your entire audio system before. Save the Furutech receptacle for future.

The only thing you might want to check, (and I don’t know if it would mater), is if the old wall receptacle branch circuit is fed from the same Line, leg, in the electrical panel as the new dedicated branch circuit.

You could check it with a volt meter.


Do I need to burn-in each of the 4 receptacles. For instance, just because i’m running a box fan in one receptacle, that is not burning-in the entire duplex, correct?


Yes, each receptacle of each duplex will need to be burned-in, that you want to be burned-in.


Check out the link below. Scroll down the page of the link to the metal current carrying contact guts in side the duplex receptacle.

http://www.vhaudio.com/furutech-gtx-d.pdf

@jea48 @zephyr24069 I am already hearing substantial improvement with clarity, space, noise floor and soundstage depth. I can now listen at lower levels with excellent detail retrieval which was a goal as our master is above our music room. I noticed a difference from Saturday (install day) and last night so about 53 hours in. The sibilance and grittiness is not as pronounced as it was at first listen.

Question, I am surprised that when I plug a male blade into the receptacle it is not overly tight. I believe this is by design as not to strip any type of treatments that aftermarket power cables may have. When you plug in, it slides in and sits but it never feels so secure that I would have to put my foot on the wall and pull hard. I should note that I am using standard IEC 15A power cables that came with my Rogue Cronus Magnum and VPI Scout turntable. 

I bought the receptacles from HiFi Heaven via Ebay (about $180 per rather than $240). I talked to them this morning and the gentleman tested a plug while we were on the phone. He had the same experience.

I’ve read several reviews of this wall receptacle that have used descriptors such as "vice like" when referring to the grip.

Do either of you have this wall receptacle or similar that emply a similar technique and if so can you comment?
I did not find the GTX-D Rhodium or Gold outlets to be loose on any blade; I did not find them to have the heavy locking behavior of my old Oyaide R1s either.  The GTX-Ds were easy to work with when it came to stock power cords and the blades could be inserted or removed with nominal effort. They were not loose per se....with my after-market (Elrod) power cords which all use very large Oyaide M1F1 or Furutech FI48 or FI50 ends, the grip was extremely firm but still not locking in nature. Hope this helps...I think you will really come to love these outlets once they get a full dose of burn-in...