2. digital
  3. 124408-1393

Shangling CD-T100 CD Player in need of repair

I have a Shangling CD-T100 that can use some service. It has at random a ticking sound something like a scratch on a record and sometimes it seems like a fraction of a word is cut off, something like skip. I am talking like only one letter of a word. This does not happen often but when it does it takes away from my enjoyment of the music. I live in the San Fernando Valley in California and looking for someone to check this out so I do not have to send it across the country. If I have to ship it I will but hate to have this bounced around.

128x128thefile
thefile's avatar
thefile OP
42 posts
 
Thank You for your information, Yes I have the early player with the 4 transformers. I bought it new and did not use it much, I doubt if it has 200 hours on it. Would the week laser also account for the random ticking sound or just the skipping or both. If I replaced it, it looks like I will need the CDM-12.10, is that correct. I have to get the manual out but if I remember correctly I believe the player has the Philips drive. I would like the OEM part unless you you think another brand would be better. And yes I did clean the Laser.
georgehifi's avatar
georgehifi
10,312 posts
 

Great player very sought after, even Thorsten Losech of AMR fame told me he wished he keep his one, they’re that good. Connect it direct into a poweramp using the digital domain volume control that’s in it, and forget about a preamp.

Random ticks can be the laser not error correcting small scratches/warps, also rapid fire ticks, and if bad sometimes the music refuses to progress at all it just gets stuck. 200hrs sounds a short time yes, but also just being left switched on certain cdp’s can use up laser life. Lasers them selves also have a very small rubber suspension system that ages/decays and can sag over time even without use.

Yes the laser/mech is a Philips CDM12.10 if your handy they aren’t that hard to change the whole laser/mech. Just laser is harder. And they’re cheap enough to do if you do it yourself.

There may be a protective antistatic ribbon cable solder bubble you have to unbridge, but I think not, as the end of the ribbon cable looks like it has metal clamp for a protective short, that has to be removed before pushing it into the main board.

Cheers George


thefile's avatar
thefile OP
42 posts
 
About 5 years ago the tubes and the blue light for the clear CD cover had no power, I took off the bottom cover and found a couple of bad solder joints that caused diodes to over heat and burn out. I replaced them with 4 larger ones. (All I could find at the time.) If I remember, getting to the laser looked a little complicated. I will give a try but I would feel better if I had a breakdown of the player. Just in case do you know where I can get a detailed exploded view how to get to the laser mechanism.
mattmiller's avatar
mattmiller
1,502 posts
 
USA TUBE AUDIO in Arizona can fix Shanglings!

Matt M


georgehifi's avatar
georgehifi
10,312 posts
 

I've got the circuit manual, give me your email address if you want it.


Cheers George

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