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New listening room electrical design

I'm moving to anew house in a few weeks, and trying to figure out the electrical design.
My current room was designed by Rives and I have numerous dedicated lines in it, so, I'm somewhat familiar with the topic.
The new system proposed outline:
New dedicated subpanel, exclusively for the audio components (main located in the garage, adjacent to the new room).
I have 2 speakers (Avantgarde) with powered subs
2 separate JL Fathom subs
2 mono block amps (lamm ML2)
and number of front end component, locate on stand, that going to be on the side wall
(Preamp, crossover, TT and CD player)
I'm thinking:
Two lines with 2 duplex receptacles each to power avant-garde and JL subs
Two lines with one duplex each for Lamm mono blocks
Here is my main question:
For the preamp, crossover, TT and digital I have the following options:
1.   One line with two duplexes for the analog stuff
       Another line for digital
       3 duplex recptacles on 2 separate lines
2. One line (or two) and one power distribution box with 3-4 duplex receptacle, connected to the wall receptacle
3. Two lines hardwired (no wall receptacle and no IEC and power cord in the Power distr. box) to power distribution box, separating analog from digital receptacles inside the box

What is a better approach for the front end components?
Multiple lines feeding one duplex each,
One line feeding multiple duplexes
One line feeding power distribution box?
maril555
maril555 OP
619 posts
 
David,
For now I have some Oyaide R1s and Furutech GTX-D Gold-plated receptacles.
After reading some posts, I got an impression, that Oyaide R1 can be "brittle and lean"?, so, I’m having my doubts about them now.
From what I’m reading about Furutech GTX-D Gold, vs. Rodium plated, I would definitely prefer Gold version to avoid some extra treble emphasis, that people ascribe to Rhodium plated one.
I’m not sure, that the new Furutech GTX- D NFC (that are only Rhodium plated) do have the same character, as the older non- NFC kind.
Many people prefer them over the older version.

Bill,
thanks for your input. I’m leaning toward two separate lines with one receptacle each, for analog and digital, and power distribution box, connected to the "analog’ line, to accommodate additional analog component
I will definitely have I separate line for each Lamm ML2 mono block, and another two separate lines for Avantgarde powered subs and JL subs.
And you probably right about power distribution box being hardwired, as NOT being code compliant.
maril555 OP
619 posts
 
David,
I forgot to mention, that I have some Synergistic Research Teslaplex
outlets, that I'm planning to use for subs
maril555 OP
619 posts
 
And I never tried Entreq, or any other grounding device, but I'm pretty sure, I'm going to try one after my room is finished
folkfreak's avatar
folkfreak
1,349 posts
 
Nice problem to have 😀

I went through the same a few years ago. My advice would be to add as many seperate lines as you can be bothered with. Ideally at least a pair on each wall, well spaced to allow for future changes in equipment location. For the sources I always recommend a pair of duplexes from each line. Oyaide make lovely quad face plates to cover that duplex pair. For amps and others then duplexes are fine. I use SR Red and now black outlets but you can always swap these out to taste later.

As to isolating digital from analog I have better results using a power conditioner for all the sources and using the isolation in that, currently SR 10UEF with 12UEF on order.

Consider your source for in wall power cable. Top end would be JPS which I have used in the past but I recently used Synergistic Cryo treated Romex which is much cheaper and easier to use. 

Also consider installing an Environmental Protections EP-2775 ground filter and EP-2050 surge protector. I also installed a Torus 75A isolating power conditioner to drive the whole thing, I have used EquiTech balanced power on wall conditioners in the past as well
jetrexpro
506 posts
 
Power conditioning is used to solve a problem or solve a problem that one thinks they have. Power conditioning has a sonic signature just like everything else in an audio system. If you did install conditioning I would think having a way to bypass it would be desirable. 
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