Bi-Amp v. Uneven Speaker Cable Runs (Pass Labs B&W 802D)


Hello - I have a system in my living room where I can not center the equipment in-between the right and left channel (fireplace in the way). The equipment and amp are 5 feet away from the right channel, and about 20 feet away from the left channel. Right now I am running a 30 foot pair of low end Monster Cable to each speaker until I can figure out what I want to do long term. This 30 foot pair gives me about 4-5 feet to spare on the left channel, and 20-23 feet to spare (coiled up) on the right channel. Not ideal in many regards.

Equipment: Classe CP-800, Pass Labs XP-15 Phono, VPI Super Scoutmaster with Lyra Delos, Marantz NA-11S1, Pass Labs X-250.5, B&W 802D, Audio Sensibility Statement SE XLR and RCA cables. 

I am torn between the many options to deal with this, and could use any advice given (or other ideas of course):

Option 1: Pick up another Pass Labs X-250.5 and vertically bi-amp. Run a long XLR to the left channel (25 foot), and a shorter XLR to the right channel (5 foot), and get a shorter set of identical length speaker cables. Am I gaining anything from this? 

Option 2: Run non-identical length speaker cable, 28 foot to the left, and 6 foot to the right. Besides saving money on the right channel cable, I am not having to coil up (or deal with) a massive amount of unneeded extra cable. 

Thoughts?


maxlarson
Mr_hosehead, this is my first post on A'gon, but I have to say that re-reading that Roger Russell site you linked to brought back some memories. I had to laugh when he made mention of the fad of green lining the edge of cd's in the name of better sound. I think I read this article for the first time back in college or shortly after (undergrad degree in Radio/TV).

As for the OP's question, the speed of electricity is orders of magnitude faster than the speed of sound. (50% to 99% the speed of light per wikipedia) so timing differences would not be perceivable. Differences in resistance may have a very slight measurable impact, but I doubt it would be audible if the wire gauge is sufficient. Pretty much what vtvmtodvm said above

If you are really concerned about it, you could also do a test by figuring out the resistance in the short lead, then buy some cheap wire from the hardware store of sufficient size to match that resistance for the length of the long run. The Roger Russell article that mr_hosehead linked to in his post explains this quite well. 

Without doing a test, this is merely a hypothesis, but I would suspect the air flow from your central heating/cooling fan would effect the timing of the sound from each speaker greater than would any timing difference through the wires of unequal length. Well, assuming your air vent blows across the room and isn't centered directly on the mid-line perpendicular to your speakers, either blowing with the sound wave or against the sound wave. Actually, has anyone considered the red shift or blue shift effect of HVAC on audio? Maybe that is another thread altogether, and I don't want to hijack this one. 
2 opinions: Basic Belden cable isn't spiraled to reject noise, and it's ugly. 

Any particular reason not use this Belden wire - seems like a much better option. What's up with the pricings on their site?.

http://www.awcwire.com/mfg/belden/part/1312a




I prefer to keep my speaker wires short and run longer lengths of IC to the amps. Using monos now but have used 2 stereo amps to bi-amp in the past.
2 opinions: 1 - spiraled speaker wire is of (arguably) limited benefit, but if you feel you prefer it, if you think you hear a difference, you can easily spiral regular speaker wire by anchoring one end, extending the wire fully, and inserting the other end in a drill. Give it a few turns and then stretch the cable to help lock in the spiral. Now you have spiraled wire. 2 - If less cable looks ugly (which for the most part I would prefer not to see any at all) dress the cable to conceal it. 

So for the OP, you have to decide what your budget is and what you are trying to accomplish. If you have a spare $8000 lying around for another amp and you like the way it looks, it's your money to spend and I'm sure there are salesmen and manufacturers who would appreciate your donation to their bank accounts. If you want great sound and are on a budget or don't care about conspicuously trying to impress someone, the solution would be to do nothing, or better yet, to remove the unsightly extra cable coiled up, cut each lead to the length necessary. Spend some time reading through the Roger Russel article linked above. He was the former head of acoustic research at McIntosh, so knows a thing or two about high end audio. His site is pretty fun to read through (http://www.roger-russell.com/

Whatever you decide to do, have fun and enjoy your system.