Scott - I'm using no-name CAT6 from a local computer store and it works flawlessly - the run is 30+ ft long and it passes through a Ethernet Switch on the way from the NAS to the Node 2
I'm into DIY cables, so I make my own - but they are extremely good - I've compared them to cables costing thousands and I find mine offer better performance - believe it or not.
One other thing I've found with all my components, using my power cables will result in the components operating at lower temperatures and they provide improved clarity and spacial accuracy.
Here's a link if you are interested...
http://image99.net/blog/files/be8de0c383c5434907610d6b55049e69-75.html
http://image99.net/blog/files/4127b5fe2694586e383104364360373b-74.html
For the power cables - even if you don't use the conductors identified in the link, adopting the Helix geometry alone will provide significant improvements. I adapted an 18 gauge cable on my Yamaha mini system and the improvements amazed me.
If you are not into DIY, then I would suggest a power cable from Pangea or Anti Cables perhaps.
I like the braided architecture of Anticables and based on that I believe they would provide pretty good bang for the buck, but they are quite thick,
Unfortunately, when the component only costs $599, spending a lot on cables seems a little ridiculous and most of the power cables out there are on the expensive side. But I have found that the more "affordable components" benefit the most from great cables
For connecting the power cable to the Node 2, I use a Cryo'd adapter from Take Five Audio to connect the standard IEC connector to the smaller C7 socket.
https://www.takefiveaudio.com/categories/82-ac-adapters-nema-uk-schuko-c7-c5
Hope that helps :-)
I'm into DIY cables, so I make my own - but they are extremely good - I've compared them to cables costing thousands and I find mine offer better performance - believe it or not.
One other thing I've found with all my components, using my power cables will result in the components operating at lower temperatures and they provide improved clarity and spacial accuracy.
Here's a link if you are interested...
http://image99.net/blog/files/be8de0c383c5434907610d6b55049e69-75.html
http://image99.net/blog/files/4127b5fe2694586e383104364360373b-74.html
For the power cables - even if you don't use the conductors identified in the link, adopting the Helix geometry alone will provide significant improvements. I adapted an 18 gauge cable on my Yamaha mini system and the improvements amazed me.
If you are not into DIY, then I would suggest a power cable from Pangea or Anti Cables perhaps.
I like the braided architecture of Anticables and based on that I believe they would provide pretty good bang for the buck, but they are quite thick,
Unfortunately, when the component only costs $599, spending a lot on cables seems a little ridiculous and most of the power cables out there are on the expensive side. But I have found that the more "affordable components" benefit the most from great cables
For connecting the power cable to the Node 2, I use a Cryo'd adapter from Take Five Audio to connect the standard IEC connector to the smaller C7 socket.
https://www.takefiveaudio.com/categories/82-ac-adapters-nema-uk-schuko-c7-c5
Hope that helps :-)