Class "A" sound, as related to Stereophile.



It's all about the sound.

It's all about sound, not how much it cost; when I got into "high end", I knew right off the bat I couldn't afford it, but I had to find one thing for sure; how do the various components sound in regard to Stereophile's classes, or ratings? In order to know this; I had to acquire the ability to identify "Stereophile's" class "A" class "B" and class "C" sounds, and the only way to do that was: first, subscribe to Stereophile, and next was to go to every high end audio salon within driving distance; there were 5 well stocked "high end" salons within driving distance. (Since I didn't take my wife, that created some problems)

After a few years of subscribing to Stereophile, plus auditioning equipment that Stereophile recommended, I knew the sound of those recommendations, and I absolutely concurred with them; "If you want to hear the music, you got to pay the piper". While that's true, it's possible to get class "A" sound with class "B" bucks or less.

At this moment, I am looking at 8 capacitors that cost $25 dollars each, plus 2 mono blocks with an instant resale value of 6K. Once I take the covers off and go in with my soldering iron, these mono blocks are worth a resell of O; my mission must be a success. After a successful mission, the resell is still 0; but those mono blocks will deliver class "A" or "A"+ sound, and that's some sweet music.

I have to visualize and hear music in my head before I can modify a component to deliver class "A" sound; but that's the only way for me to get what has become a necessity.

The pressure someone is under when they modify, is great, but the rewards are glorious. On these mono blocks, they are too small for the huge capacitors, therefore I have to figure a way to make the case larger. My reward is "sound" with absolutely no relation to money. I often wander if someone with a fat bankroll can identify the sound, or only how much they paid for each piece.


Happy listening.

orpheus10
Dave, I'm in the process of building a table for the TT to record on the concrete floor in the basement; no vibrations there, but upstairs on hardwood floors, that's like a springboard for a TT..  Soon will be my first time to seriously get into room acoustics.

Thanks for the info
o,

Don’t be fooled by the concrete slab. My whole house is on a concrete slab and everything from my TT to my SACD player to my preamp to my power supplies to my AC enhancer to my amp to my speaker cables has benefitted significantly from additional vibration isolation. And don’t forget about dissipating the internal vibrations generated by your TT motor, CD transport, and the transformers in your components.

Next for me is speaker isolation.

Best to you o,
Dave

Dave, have you been through room acoustics? Can you make specific recommendations? I've seen different things, but I don't know what does what.


Thank you.
Hi o,

I had a tremendous mid-bass hump in my room.  Spent many days rearranging speaker and listening positions and measuring the resulting frequency response, all to little avail.

I did some research on another website (something asylum) and found a lot of good information from Jon Risch. He made a strong case that bass traps should be made of 2" thick rigid fiberglass completely sealed to the corners so that it actually traps the overabundant bass waves.

So I found a local building supply warehouse nearby and bought 24" wide X 2" thick rigid yellow fiberglass panels as long as they had (6' long maybe?). This is not the loose pink stuff you buy at HD. It is very dense and rigid.  I bought frame material, something like 2" wide plywood board from HD to make the frame completely around each panel and built them the exact height of my room from floor to ceiling.

After the frame was added around the entire circumference and fiberglass panels, I used spray-on adhesive and a staple gun to attach fabric that I bought cheap to the panels.  I found soft butyl rubber garage door gasket at the local Ace (the kind that is used for sealing the bottom of garage doors) and trapped that all the way around the panels (no gaps) into the corners of the room behind my speakers. I had cut strips of wood to brace them into the corners every 2 feet vertically.  You can see pics of these on my Virtual System page. 

I also built 2' X4' panels of the same 2" rigid fiberglass using the same framing and fabric technique, but not sealed, and placed them at  the first refection points halfway between the speakers and my listening position.

Worked like a charm. My audiophile friends could not believe the improvement.  Total cost was around $500 and it took a few days to build them all.

Best to you o,
Dave     


Dave, you really have a beautiful "man cave'; Empire Cartridges were my favorite back in the day, they looked and sounded good.

Did that corner treatment solve all your problems? I'm not sure if I'm up to building one now, are they available for installation?

Without a doubt, you got a swell place for enjoying one of the best rigs I've seen.


I really enjoyed perusing it.