Class "A" sound, as related to Stereophile.



It's all about the sound.

It's all about sound, not how much it cost; when I got into "high end", I knew right off the bat I couldn't afford it, but I had to find one thing for sure; how do the various components sound in regard to Stereophile's classes, or ratings? In order to know this; I had to acquire the ability to identify "Stereophile's" class "A" class "B" and class "C" sounds, and the only way to do that was: first, subscribe to Stereophile, and next was to go to every high end audio salon within driving distance; there were 5 well stocked "high end" salons within driving distance. (Since I didn't take my wife, that created some problems)

After a few years of subscribing to Stereophile, plus auditioning equipment that Stereophile recommended, I knew the sound of those recommendations, and I absolutely concurred with them; "If you want to hear the music, you got to pay the piper". While that's true, it's possible to get class "A" sound with class "B" bucks or less.

At this moment, I am looking at 8 capacitors that cost $25 dollars each, plus 2 mono blocks with an instant resale value of 6K. Once I take the covers off and go in with my soldering iron, these mono blocks are worth a resell of O; my mission must be a success. After a successful mission, the resell is still 0; but those mono blocks will deliver class "A" or "A"+ sound, and that's some sweet music.

I have to visualize and hear music in my head before I can modify a component to deliver class "A" sound; but that's the only way for me to get what has become a necessity.

The pressure someone is under when they modify, is great, but the rewards are glorious. On these mono blocks, they are too small for the huge capacitors, therefore I have to figure a way to make the case larger. My reward is "sound" with absolutely no relation to money. I often wander if someone with a fat bankroll can identify the sound, or only how much they paid for each piece.


Happy listening.

orpheus10
Hi o,

If I recall correctly, the full-round ASC products have an absorptive material over half the outer surface and a reflective material over the other half, such that rotating them will provide different tuning effects. Seems that this might be key to optimal tuning or even bass wave absorption?

Best to you o,
Dave

I didn't realize the full round and the half round are almost the same price, I might as well get the full round.

I'll call and order Monday, I'm just going to get one piece. If you can think of anything I might need to know before then, drop a line.

A trip around the room begins with one full round.
"The diameter of the Tube Trap, not the length determines the low frequency cutoff. Only Tube Traps have built-in diffusive reflection panels to maintain ambience control. Tube Traps work best in areas where there is heavy bass, such as the corners of the room."

http://www.asc-hifi.com/tube-trap-setups.htm

http://www.rspeaudio.com/ASC-Tube-Trap-20-Inch-Diameter-40hz-p/asc-tube-trap-20-40.htm


Like you said Dave "They ain't cheap". I know they work, but it's for sure I should call and chat for awhile. My problem on the surface, or what it appears to be, is a more powerful right channel, but I know it's the room acoustics causing the problem.

I can correct it by turning the left volume higher than the right, but I don't think I'm getting as good of a sound stage as I would by correcting the problem.

It seems that everyone has had the bass problem they corrected by installing "front corner traps"; now that I have a more complex problem, I want to make sure that I spend money effectively.

After looking at the prices, my "DIY" mind is working overtime.

Thanks for the information.
Hi o,

I thought that the prices might get your attention. It can easily cost $5-10K to correctly/completely treat a room with ASC products.

Correcting your immediate problem may be as simple as placing absorptive panels on your right wall. As you say, I would talk to the experts at ASC before setting your CC ablaze. You could try craft quilt batting from Walmart covered with cloth or even a couple of memory foam pillows (more absorption) at the first reflection point (centered at tweeter/ear height halfway between your speaker’s front baffle and your listening position) on your right wall to see what happens.

Effective bass wave attenuation is harder and much more expensive unless you build your own.

Best to you o,
Dave