Class "A" sound, as related to Stereophile.



It's all about the sound.

It's all about sound, not how much it cost; when I got into "high end", I knew right off the bat I couldn't afford it, but I had to find one thing for sure; how do the various components sound in regard to Stereophile's classes, or ratings? In order to know this; I had to acquire the ability to identify "Stereophile's" class "A" class "B" and class "C" sounds, and the only way to do that was: first, subscribe to Stereophile, and next was to go to every high end audio salon within driving distance; there were 5 well stocked "high end" salons within driving distance. (Since I didn't take my wife, that created some problems)

After a few years of subscribing to Stereophile, plus auditioning equipment that Stereophile recommended, I knew the sound of those recommendations, and I absolutely concurred with them; "If you want to hear the music, you got to pay the piper". While that's true, it's possible to get class "A" sound with class "B" bucks or less.

At this moment, I am looking at 8 capacitors that cost $25 dollars each, plus 2 mono blocks with an instant resale value of 6K. Once I take the covers off and go in with my soldering iron, these mono blocks are worth a resell of O; my mission must be a success. After a successful mission, the resell is still 0; but those mono blocks will deliver class "A" or "A"+ sound, and that's some sweet music.

I have to visualize and hear music in my head before I can modify a component to deliver class "A" sound; but that's the only way for me to get what has become a necessity.

The pressure someone is under when they modify, is great, but the rewards are glorious. On these mono blocks, they are too small for the huge capacitors, therefore I have to figure a way to make the case larger. My reward is "sound" with absolutely no relation to money. I often wander if someone with a fat bankroll can identify the sound, or only how much they paid for each piece.


Happy listening.

orpheus10
randy-11 makes a good point. The latest digital EQ technology is a great solution for bass correction if you don’t have an analog source (ie TT) that would do not want converted to digital. I would still deal with basic reflection issues using acoustical absorption treatments for best results.

BTW, o, Michaels, Hobby Lobby, and Walmart all have the supplies you should need to make "pillows".

As I stated much earlier, I had to go to a professional building supply warehouse to get the 2" thick dense fiberglass board recommended in the article you linked. Be sure to wear sufficient body covering, gloves, and a respirator when handling this stuff once out of the packaging until you get it completely covered with fabric.

Best,
Dave
back to Class A...

has anyone compared S'phile's Class A to their Class B?

and with what results?

Randy, I've done that many many times; Class "A" is quite often infinitely more expensive than Class "B". While you can mix and match components to come up with Class "B" sound; to come up with Class "A" sound, you must have all Class "A" components plus what we are doing as best we can; to have that done by experts. Class "A" is a "SOUND" as well as components that are given that rating.

While it's possible to occasionally find an affordable Class "A" component, (I always buy if I can use it) it's not the usual case.

You can get lucky on "amps" and "pre-amps" in regard to affordable class "A".

In regard to class "B"; it's my favorite class because some of the components are almost Class "A", and I can pay for them; the word "afford" is no longer in my vocabulary.

Class "A" cartridges and turntables are out of most people's reach.

I hope I've answered your question.



Enjoy the music.