Hi Dave,
I believe that the main difference between a ceramic fuse and a comparable glass fuse is usually in what is called "breaking capacity." That refers to the maximum amount of current the fuse is rated to be able to safely interrupt when a fault requires it to blow, that would not result in it rupturing or exploding or failing to open the circuit. And I believe that ceramic fuses tend to have much higher breaking capacities than glass fuses that are otherwise similar.
So that difference would only come into play if a fault arises in the sub which requires the fuse to blow. But whether or not the breaking capacity of the SR glass fuse would be adequate in that event can't be predicted with any kind of certainty without knowing the details of the sub's circuit design, and without having detailed specifications on the SR fuse. FWIW, though, my guess, based just on instinct, is that it is unlikely that you would ever have a problem as a result of that difference.
A separate question, though, is whether it would be advisable to choose an SR fuse having a somewhat higher current rating than the stock fuse, to minimize the likelihood of the false blows that various people have reported in this thread. My guess, again based just on instinct, is that it would probably be a good idea to go up one rating increment, which if I recall correctly would be to 8 amps.
Good luck. Best regards,
-- Al
I believe that the main difference between a ceramic fuse and a comparable glass fuse is usually in what is called "breaking capacity." That refers to the maximum amount of current the fuse is rated to be able to safely interrupt when a fault requires it to blow, that would not result in it rupturing or exploding or failing to open the circuit. And I believe that ceramic fuses tend to have much higher breaking capacities than glass fuses that are otherwise similar.
So that difference would only come into play if a fault arises in the sub which requires the fuse to blow. But whether or not the breaking capacity of the SR glass fuse would be adequate in that event can't be predicted with any kind of certainty without knowing the details of the sub's circuit design, and without having detailed specifications on the SR fuse. FWIW, though, my guess, based just on instinct, is that it is unlikely that you would ever have a problem as a result of that difference.
A separate question, though, is whether it would be advisable to choose an SR fuse having a somewhat higher current rating than the stock fuse, to minimize the likelihood of the false blows that various people have reported in this thread. My guess, again based just on instinct, is that it would probably be a good idea to go up one rating increment, which if I recall correctly would be to 8 amps.
Good luck. Best regards,
-- Al