The mod on the speaker removed the inductor and switch on the binding post cup . The driver is wired direct to the speaker cables. The subs are on IsoAcoustics ISO -l8r200 stands 4 " tall the tweeter height falls in at 36" from the floor . The best thing about the Ohms is they are coherent . The Mini DSP is a great inexpensive tool for sub adjustments $ 105.00 @ Madisound
Ohm Walsh Micro Talls: who's actually heard 'em?
Hi,
I'd love to hear the impressions of people who've actually spent some time with these speakers to share their sense of their plusses and minuses. Mapman here on Audiogon is a big fan, and has shared lots on them, but I'm wondering who else might be familiar with them.
I'd love to hear the impressions of people who've actually spent some time with these speakers to share their sense of their plusses and minuses. Mapman here on Audiogon is a big fan, and has shared lots on them, but I'm wondering who else might be familiar with them.
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- 2916 posts total
Evening gents or ladies.... Finally got home from the metal shop and made some changes to the 2/2000. Found them to heavy in the bass as they were sitting about an inch or so from the carpet...yikes. Found some footers lifting them up another 3/4" and put them on my concrete platforms. Much better and there's still some midrange suckout that bothers both Tate and my self. The marking for direction was off big time, so I rotated the Speaker so the tweeter was aimed at the seating position. Wow better intelligibility, soundstaging and overall more fun. I think the speaker would sound way better crossed over at 80hz and have the subs pick up the heavy work. As they are they suck HP like mofo's almost in Apogee territory...lol I attached an image of the velocity stack now I just need to make it flush with the bottom of the speaker. I also came up with some F1 tech I want to add (I'll show it when speaker is done). I also have a very cool way to de-couple the tweeter module from the main body of the speaker......🇸🇪 https://www.flickr.com/photos/147883144@N08/32258881340/in/dateposted-public/ |
After hours of listening to the 2/2000 I figured something was wrong with the bass and I needed to investigate further. The first thing was a monstrous air leak at the Left speaker mounting plate. This was fixed with a simple liberal helping of high viscous super glue..... At this point I would have thought the problem would have been fixed, so I ran frequency sweep and found a weird hump at the lower frequencies on the Right speaker.....what the heck could it be? Fast forward to this afternoon and after some inspection I found that the bass port tube had dislodged it self. Good and bad I guess, but I did get a chance to look at the innards of a 2/2000.....hehehe 5/8" particle board on the sides and bottom panel. As for bracing it had 2 fir braces that looked more as holders for the stuffing then bracing. Two third of the bottom cavity was devoid of anything. If Tate wants me to fix the tube I'll be happy too. So back to the 4/5000... I decided to remove the bottom panel take out everything and start over. first I need to dampen the wall of the cabinet in a proper way, I will most likely use 1/4" aluminum, noise dampening sheeting and wool stuffening. Bracing will be either Some mdf/ aluminum mix or carbon fiber profiles available to me. I figured I have so much time invested why not do it right.....yeehaw 🇸🇪 |
It's funny that you gave some technical help as I was sitting and looking for ceramic ball bearings for part of my build (thank you McMaster). I also have looked in to this paper epoxy countertop material that's incredibly dense and easy to machine with carbide tipped tools. I am also planing on doing a little YouTube video series on the build up, should be fun. Im hoping to get started tomorrow with some video clips talking about some of my ideas and what I'm expecting from the build up. Then in to the shop cutting the bottom panel out remove all the poor bracing from Ohm and plan on something new but looking like something you would find in a 800 series B&W. I might make a false wall on the outside panel. Fill it with dry sand to dampen vibrations. The top mounting plate will be a sandwich of 3/16" steel and two sheets of 1/8" aluminum dampened with proper butyl rubber sheeting and glue. And to add extra stability to the whole part I'm adding 1/8" thick water jetted carbon plate. If I had some more cash I would laser cut 1/2" plates to add even more stability..... 💯 Hope you guys are excited to see what can be done to make this speaker amazing...🇸🇪 |
- 2916 posts total