Which pre should I choose?


There are two Pre in our 2nd hand market. One is Accuphase C-290 (selling at: US$3300) which start to produce in 1993. The other is Accuphase C-275V (selling at: US$2600) which start to produce in 2000. My power is Accuphase CA-47 to drive Dynaudio Countour 1.3SE. I like warm & thick & not to fast sound. Do you have good ideas? I prefer to listen to classical music mostly.
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If you want to inject some real warmth and feeling, try a tube pre amp. Sometimes having the right tube pre amp with a solid state amp can really bring awesome results! Proper matching of impedence should be no problem, with the right unit. I know matching components is nice, and will probably work very well indeed. But you only live once!!! ..I think...lol


Matt M
Don Sachs customizes the Tubes4HiFi SP14 preamp.

The SP14 uses 6SN7 tubes. Cost depends on which options and tubes you chose; the base configuration starts at $1,699.

Upgrading the output caps to Duelund CAST PIO-Cu will set you back $375.

Upgrading one pair of the 6sn7 tubes to Shuguang Black Treasure CV181z will cost $129.

Changing one set of RCA inputs to XLR is $275.

Worth adding to your list of possible candidates. The only problem is that since each one is custom built by Don, you can’t audition it before you buy (unless you know someone who owns one).

http://www.dsachsconsulting.com/custom%20line%20stage.html

I own one and can attest that Don is a great guy and very easy to work with. He will work with you to ensure that the output impedance of the preamp matches the input impedance of your amp.

And yes, his preamp is an incredible performer!

bdp 24: thick means the sound reproduction is not thin or lean orientation. But it doesn't mean fat. Fat will cause distortion in sound reproduction.



Aolmrd 1241: Tks for your suggestions. I am afraid the vintage gear will always need repair constantly. It will cost your time and money and inconvenience.  Also, I have heard that  Tube amp. is not as durable as transister one.
Vintage gear does not "need repair constantly ". In fact it is probably better made than most modern units.  As long as any electrolytic caps are replaced you should be good to go.