Do I need a power conditioner?


I’m in the process of dropping a dedicated 20 amp circuit or 2 into the music room.
So if I have a dedicated circuit for the amp, and a dedicated circuit for everything else,
is a conditioner useful?
I have several fairly decent systems going that I tweek and retweek.
Just got around to upgrading cables. Avoided conditioners because, in general, they dampen the presentation.
Was using a PS Audio PPP for low power components. But fell for the Shunyata spiel.
Plugged in a Hydra 4 with a Python Helix and was very happy with how it cleaned up the Zu Druids.
Seems high sensitivity speakers maybe reveal the grunge also.
Moved it to my system with the Martin Logans and the presentation seemed a bit lean and just a bit lifeless, using just copperhead cable to Hydra. (using all Pangea to get from the Hydra to other components.)
Then I put a Black Mamba from Classe amp straight to the wall and Wow! Single most significant tweek ever for me.
So I’m thinking, maybe I don’t need the Denali I ordered if I just use a couple dedicated circuits and some Shunyata power cords everywhere.
Opinions?
Thanks. :)
leotis
@leotis,
I most likely can't suggest any further answers to your questions than what has already been mentioned above my post, however, I would like to add a few suggestions and give you my take on my own systems. 

If possible I would suggest you add at least two if not three dedicated 20 amp circuits into your music room. That way you can have any digital components (including a turntable motor if you should have or ever get one) on its own dedicated line, in case you should decide down the road that you don't need power conditioning.

I have a Denali 2000T that I was powering my Plinius SA Reference Amp and Allnic L-3000 preamp from however I found that I prefer the sound of my amp when powered directly from the wall outlet.

As far as power conditioning goes, that's something you need to try and decide for yourself if you need or like it or not. Everyone's system is different and no one but you can make that decision.
@leotis,
I’d like to caution you about circuit amperage, unused circuits in your circuit breaker box and the act of turning off lots of appliances when you listen (longterm). Be aware that a properly designed circuit leg from the breaker box will have a load of around, say, 80-85% of capacity. IOW, if you have a 20 amp circuit, the connected devices should preferably be, say, 15-17 amps...too close to 20 would be considered unsafe, but the concern for audio is too little of a load (longterm, over many weeks). A circuit with consistently much too low of a load will create voltage instability. It’s the voltage instability (again, longterm) that plays havoc with the sound. In many cases, there are more voltage instabilities that originate inside the home than from outside.

If you have a home with all circuit loads at nominal and all circuits see regular daytime use, that will be enough to be conducive to voltage stability and therefor good sound.

But, there is one more point. After the above is secured, the entire issue becomes wholly a matter of GROUNDING! For audio, your home’s ground system should really be inspected every 10 yrs or so, more often if you live in a dry climate. Ground rods corrode, as do connections and wiring (assuming that is all to code to begin with) and many older homes are effectively left electrically without any ground at all. Does that have an effect on the sound?? You bet it does. An effective ground (your local electrician can tell you what is code for your area) will mean better power conditioning performance and/or better system performance even without conditioning.

I don’t know that your sister is so nutty after all ;>)
Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the interesting advice.
Definitely gonna implement some.
Just got done cutting holes in the wall and drilling through studs and top plates. Fortunately I could do it on the inside of a closet, and just put the outlets on the other side of the wall. What a mess. Gonna run 2 isolated 20 amp lines.One for amp (Classe CA5200 = 200W X 5). One for components.
Had been using PS PPP for just components. Was always a little suspicious about that unit. Final straw is the vibration and the fan. Figure the Denali is a sure fire upgrade. Classe says "no conditioners."
Shunyata says "no problem." Will be easy enough to do the experiment.
Thanks again.

Hey Ivan,
Don’t actually turn off AC or dryer etc unless the noise is an issue when I’m dong some critical listening. I’m aware that you like to keep the draw balanced between the A and B poles on your main power supply. Easier said than done maybe.
Looked over Alan Maher's web site. Pretty interesting stuff. So I borrowed my sister's "Stetezerizer Microsurge Meter" and measured around. Some of my non dedicated circuits measure better than the 1 dedicated circuit I have.
Also, the circuit where I have the Hydras connected measure significantly lower at all the outlets on that same circuit.I also borrowed her mini conditioner. Kinda like a Shunyata Defender I think. Plugged it in and the measurements are about half of the unconditioned measurement. Similar to the Hydra effect. Gonna take a listen and see how it sounds. A Defender is $195. My sisters unit is $39!
Plugged in the $39 conditioner and couldn't hear a difference.
Bummer. Thought maybe I found a cheap shortcut. :/