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Do I need a power conditioner?

I’m in the process of dropping a dedicated 20 amp circuit or 2 into the music room.
So if I have a dedicated circuit for the amp, and a dedicated circuit for everything else,
is a conditioner useful?
I have several fairly decent systems going that I tweek and retweek.
Just got around to upgrading cables. Avoided conditioners because, in general, they dampen the presentation.
Was using a PS Audio PPP for low power components. But fell for the Shunyata spiel.
Plugged in a Hydra 4 with a Python Helix and was very happy with how it cleaned up the Zu Druids.
Seems high sensitivity speakers maybe reveal the grunge also.
Moved it to my system with the Martin Logans and the presentation seemed a bit lean and just a bit lifeless, using just copperhead cable to Hydra. (using all Pangea to get from the Hydra to other components.)
Then I put a Black Mamba from Classe amp straight to the wall and Wow! Single most significant tweek ever for me.
So I’m thinking, maybe I don’t need the Denali I ordered if I just use a couple dedicated circuits and some Shunyata power cords everywhere.
Opinions?
Thanks. :)
leotis
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cleeds
5,957 posts
 
tubes444

... You can start at your Master breaker panel. I installed Square-D Hospital grade 30AMP breaker ... I’ve used Sq-D 30AMP single pole/Dual function-CAFCI/CFCI

No it doesn’t require an electrician ...  If you don’t have a ground rod. Home Depot carries them. Even if you are a renter ...

I'm not sure what the benefit of a 30A breaker is in residential use where (in the U.S.) a 20A receptacle would be the largest single-phase outlet allowed under many local codes and, I'm pretty sure, the NEC. Moreover, the 30A breaker creates  hazard, because the rest of the circuit (especially the receptacle) isn't rated for 30A. That's a potential fire hazard.

A grounding rod bonded to the service panel is required by code and, often, code requires two rods. If there's no rod, you should contact an electrician or, if you're a renter, your landlord.
leotis OP
183 posts
 
I installed two 20 amp circuits both from the same pole. So ground loops shouldn’t be a problem. Don’t really need 2 though, if I run everything off the Denali including the amp. Can easily compare with amp alone into it’s own circuit. Even just using the old Hydra 4 the sound stage/imaging is dramatically improved. I think the Black Mamba PC, amp to wall made a bigger difference than the Hydra 4 maybe. Seems like the Hydra cleans it up but also drys it out a little. I expect the Denali to be way better than the Hydra, so I doubt I will be disappointed. Too bad it is on back order.
tubes444
91 posts
 

Cleeds,

My home has 150AMP Panel to run A/C/ Range/Ref/water heater them along demand  44 AMP's. My audio system when all equipment

is playing can surge up to 18 Amps. This fact is supported  by a Inline

current meter placed on a dedicated Cardas 8-ga AC Cable.

As far as the components. ALL R FUSED..

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cleeds
5,957 posts
 
tubes444

... My audio system when all equipment is playing can surge up to 18 Amps ...

As far as the components. ALL R FUSED.

I don’t doubt that your system can draw 18A. Typically, a system such as that is best served by using multiple dedicated AC lines.

The fuses in your components are there to protect the component, not the AC line. Similarly, the breaker in your service panel is there to protect the AC line, not your components. If you’re using a 30A breaker on a line designed for 20A service - and that uses a 20A receptacle - that’s a clear violation of code. And it’s a potential fire hazard.

Use of ALL CAPS is considered shouting, btw.


leotis OP
183 posts
 
Canceled Denali order.
Gonna go Equitech.
Compelling argument for balanced power:
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/equitech/1.html
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