Placement tips for Synergistic Research HTFs


I just bought 15 HTFs and will also be making about a dozen of Ozzie's homemade models.  While I will re-fresh myself with SR's placement tips, and I get that I will have to do some experimenting to tailor the HFT effect to MY listening room; are there any "Advanced HFT Placement Tips" some of you would like to share with us?  Something that might be overlooked by many of us?  Or maybe, just a good rule-of-thumb tip for someone just starting to use these?
The tips could be tips for bring out more highs, solidifying the bass response, placement hi vs low, in front of vs behind speakers, on side walls, at reflection points, behind the listener, on the ceiling above the equipment or above the listener, on the equipment.
Any ah-ha that you would like to share?  I would also be very interested in hearing from people using Magnapans.

toolbox149
Todd;
You can find out about Ozzy's DIY resonators (or Ozinators, as I am calling them) if you read the thread titled. "Synergistic Research HFT + FEQ".  
I think Ozzy started to write about them on page two and had a lengthy conversation with Sabai about them.

Toolbox

Ok, here is a recap of my posting from 2014.

"For all you DIY’s. I have received many emails to make these items. They are quite simple to make.

I used 1/8" copper caps with a large copper cone from a company called "Hareline" inside. Hareline makes items for fishing lures and can be bought from Amazon.

The caps however, will need to be purchased from a plumbing house. Then just simply glue the cone inside the cap. The cone is a direct drop in. I used Elmer’s school glue to seal the cone inside the cap.

Audio Magic also places a crystal in the middle of there "Bells". I suppose you could use (Blu Tack)to hold a crystal in the cap before gluing the cone in it.
Personally I don’t think its necessary.

When you place the cones (I used blue tack) on the wall or the equipment, place them in the middle first with one at the height of your speaker, then near the floor and perhaps one up high. If you go too high with them it may accent the higher frequencies. But do experiment.

The others were placed at the first and second reflection points on the side walls.

At the wall behind you, I placed them again in the middle, at floor level, mid and high.

Then from there you can experiment through your room and equipment. Some places they worked good and some not so good.

I must add that I also own the SR FEQ unit which is supposed to excite these things.
by ozzy"

ozzy

Geoffkait;
Yeah, I figure working with the Magnepans is going to be a challenge.  Especially, since I have a quad set-up which means I have four Maggie 1.7s to deal with, plus two large subwoofer enclosures.

I like Ozzy's sugestión of attaching some of the HFTs and some resonators (Ozinators) around the sides and top of the speakers themselves.   Attaching them to digital components also sounds intriguing.

One of Newton's Laws: For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Sealed box speakers have no way to react to the speaker driver motion except to vibrate the cabinets. Planar speakers use the back wave to offload energy, thus resonators will probably not be very efficacious on planar frames. There is no energy in the vertical directions or the horizontal directions in the plane of the diaphragm.

geoffkait,

You stated, "If you’re using panels the acoustic waves will obviously set up in the room quite a bit differently than conventional box speakers. Thus take any diagrams with a grain of salt."

Why "take any diagrams with a grain of salt" -- with the added inevitability of "thus"? Why not think for yourself and try them out? If you have panels, what have you got to lose? The 4 manufacturers who have published diagrams may not be wrong, or totally wrong, in the case of panels. And you may want to email them and get their opinions. They may in fact have experience with panels. So, my advice is to take the various diagrams any way you wish. They may work for you or not. Or parts may work for you. Unless you have actually gone to the trouble and done the work, and not simply speculated about how things will "thus" turn out, it could go either way. The proof of the pudding is in the eating. 

You stated, "Also keep in mind Tchang’s diagram is indicated on his web site as pertinent ONLY to his Silver and Gold tiny bowls, so I suggest using the diagram with that in mind."

If you check Franck's site you will see that this statement is simply incorrect. His 8 diagrams clearly pertain to all of his "tiny" bowls. And who is to say his diagrams will not apply to other resonators, as well? In fact, his diagrams work very well for my DIY resonators. YMMV, of course. So, I suggest keeping an open mind by using the diagrams without any preconceptions. After all, what have you got to lose? They will either work for you or not. It is also possible that parts may work for you. Until you do the work, making a statement about grains of salt is simply an "in my opinion" kind of thing. Each person needs to do the work in his/her system to find out if this is true or not. And, as I said earlier, there is a lot of trial and error here after you experiment with the diagrams.

You stated, "Of course the best way to locate the ideal positions for any resonator(s) is to employ a test tone and SPL meter." If you add "in my opinion" here, as well, I do not think anyone's feelings would be at all hurt. IMO. Lol.