Placement tips for Synergistic Research HTFs


I just bought 15 HTFs and will also be making about a dozen of Ozzie's homemade models.  While I will re-fresh myself with SR's placement tips, and I get that I will have to do some experimenting to tailor the HFT effect to MY listening room; are there any "Advanced HFT Placement Tips" some of you would like to share with us?  Something that might be overlooked by many of us?  Or maybe, just a good rule-of-thumb tip for someone just starting to use these?
The tips could be tips for bring out more highs, solidifying the bass response, placement hi vs low, in front of vs behind speakers, on side walls, at reflection points, behind the listener, on the ceiling above the equipment or above the listener, on the equipment.
Any ah-ha that you would like to share?  I would also be very interested in hearing from people using Magnapans.

toolbox149
If you follow Franck Tchang's diagrams regarding the high placement locations you may get good results. Regarding cones, it may be hard to the 10mm x 12mm beading cones that I mostly use. But this style on Ebay also works well for many locations. They protrude from the copper caps, but that is not a problem.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20mm-Bali-Style-100-Solid-COPPER-Fancy-Handmade-HONEYCOMB-CONE-Cap-Beads-16p...


Thanks.
The Hareline Alaska Brass cones I mentioned are 9.5mm cones, which fit very well into the 1/8" caps. Not so well that they stick all by themselves. You will still have to glue them, but the cone edge is just a little bigger than the cap opening and the two pieces make an excellant match.
I have some larger cones on the way, but the Alaska Brass cones I mentioned sound really good and they are easy to find.  If you order them they will probably end up delivered within 3-4 days.  The caps took 4-5 days to arrive.  
The edge of the cones do protrude from the caps by about 1/8" but as you say, no problem. They sound fantastic.  
I'm currently experimenting with the 9.5mm cones mounted in slightly smaller bases and I've also built some mini-Ozinators using 1/4" or 8mm cones in brass compression sleeves.

Toolbox

Arggggggh!
I received the remaining parts and assembled a large number of Ozinators held together with superglue and with Blue Stik/Blue Tak. So I am all ready to start the big experiment, started turning on the components, and somehow blew the fuse for my preamp. I don't have a spare handy so I had to order another fuse and use a different fuse in the meantime. The big problem is my set can't possibly sound the way I had it set up, so I won't be able to make any evaluations and adjustments until the replacement arrives and I get it burned in.
One thing I can mention is that ALL of these transducers/resonators alter the sound produced by my stereo. I, for one, ended up with way more bass than before requiring that I take steps to reduce the volume of the lower frequencies.
Also, the upper frequencies were more pronounced requiring adjustments in the resonator placements as well as adjustments to my equipment.
The end result of both of these outcomes is my midrange got buried. I had to boost the upper midrange levels in order to make vocals sound natural and open, instead of veiled or pushed into the background.
I point this out because many of you are of the source-preamp-amp-speaker way of thinking, and you won't be able to make any sizeable adjustments to your set-up if these things throw your sound off.
As for me, I can make all kinds of adjustments to my sound but if you can't - tread lightly. It may be that just a very small amount of these can/will be tolerable to you.
Maybe those of you in the source-preamp-amp-speaker camp can chip in with their experiences.
In the meantime, my fuses should be here soon.

Thanks,
Toolbox.
Sent from my iPad
Ah, the old burn in predicament. I remember it well. Next stop, the waiting game. 😁