Should I build plinths or screw spikes into cabinet?


I've got a great old pair of B&W DM640 floor standers, but I don't have the plinth and spike kit that were sold as an option back in the '90s.  Since I have been unable to track down a kit online or directly through B&W I am planning on building my own.

The speakers themselves were built without any isolation system on the base of the cabinet, and were set on top of adjustable "lugs" which were incorporated into the top of the optional wooden plinths.  Each plinth had four basic spikes mounted at the corners.  This sounds easy enough to replicate.

Does it make more sense to simply drill into the base of the cabinet and mount the spikes directly?  The tweeters are nearly at ear level, so I don't need to lift them much.  I am a little hesitant to make any permanent alteration to the speakers, however.  Any opinions or alternatives are welcomed!
guitared
A really cheap but effective method is to use hockey pucks instead of spikes but you would have no adjustments unless you add some threads.

Kenny.
That's not a bad idea, and I might actually be one of the few North Carolinians who actually has a few hockey pucks laying around...
"Drain Vibrations Away" is an obscure Dead song…note the "pods" under my speakers don't drain anything so much as they keep the vibration from the bases of the speakers cabinets out of the oak (technically turning vibration into heat, although it's got to be some tiny amount of heat). This could be rendered meaningless by the fact that both of my subs are on that same floor, but at least I know the subs are putting only vetted bass of 40hz and below…vetted…