Ok, Chayes, you're in the beginning phase of "freak out". That's good, You have much freaking out to go, however! Do not freak out too quickly or you will "SCREW" the entire project. You want to have a CONTROLLED FREAK OUT. That way, as you work on the project with less sleep, you will actually fall into a semi-comatose state in which the correct door will be found, the correct wiring will be located. etc. ;)
By the way, the Freak Out Phase lasts until the last bill is paid! hahaha
Seriously, Glenfihi is absolutely correct. Do not let this project be pushed too quickly! Mistakes will be made and you'll regret it. Time in construction is your ally. Now, if you could only convince your wife! :)
I told my wife it would be one year to do. It took 8 months, I'm a hero!
You're getting solid core door to keep out 4 month old baby! Wow, must be strong baby...
yes, definitely solid door! Do dedicated outlets for audio and AV. Subpanel is very good. Square D definitely BEST sounding panel! :) You should be FREAKING OUT over that issue more! I sense you are not FREAKING OUT enough about the sound of the panel!
I had people tell me 110 wasn't enough for our house (1800 sq. ft ranch) to add HT. More honest electrician said we didn't need upgrade on electrical, that 100 was fine, we just needed subpanel. He was right. Oh, the lights go out in the Ht when the AC kicks in, but who cares! ;)
Ok, seriously: Only 7 foot ceiling? Hmmm. No dropped ceiling. Better be DOGGONE sure what you want up in that ceiling before you seal it! I would, in that case, Put PVC pipe in the walls to run wiring to surrounds. That way you can fish new wires later if you want. CAULK the pvc and holes if you do, or it may rattle!!!! You gotta nail down, caulk EVERYTHING! Do not allow ANY looseness in walls, ceiling.
Yes, make your changes to dimensions of room NOW while you still may relatively cheaply. Studs cost nothing compared with the right result!
If you're doing the thicker walls, you may have to order wider door jamb!!! Finalize how thick your walls will be and check on that! I went to Home Depot and got thickest one piece jamp they had; 7.5 inches (you can go bigger but they're composite and cost more).
Call your Home Depot and ask for "Hat Channel" or "Resilient Channel" They will probably know it as Resilient channel. Look it up on the web. Pops out about 1/2" from the stud and separates the sheeting (homasote or sheetrock) from the stud. You SHOULD at least use it on the walls! If you can, also on ceiling, but that's making it pretty low. If you decide not to do so on ceiling, I would put at least two layers up. Two layers of sheetrock/drywall and second layer applied at 90 degree turn to first layer, so no seams line up.
I built the soundproof boxes out of Homasote and recessed them into the floor joists above the basement. You gotta get your own system to rig them. I did not have them flush with the floor above, but floated them about 1.5-2" below.
I've got some pics I can send you. Send me an email to make sure we connect.
You do NOT want to run long runs of electrical and component wiring parallel to each other. Cross over at right angles, and only cross when you have to. Yes, this means lay out the plan for electrical and component wiring. I did have to cross my electrical a few times, and have zero problems in the wiring. so, FREAK OUT only a bit on this issue.
Did I tell you NO flourescent lighting in the HT! NONE! Will very likely cause noise in the lines. do all Halogen or Incandescent.
You know, you're getting about two months of reading distilled down in two minutes! Where was MY mentor when I was doing this!!!! :)
Architect, yes. Good.
Crap, too much to say. Just email me and we'll set up a phone call.
