@toddverrone - that's great to hear - awsome!
RE:...
Paragraph 2: On my speakers the jumpers are totally separate pieces of wire, so induction is not possible- they are only 4" long.
Over the next few hours the brittleness should arrive and then abate after a couple of days.
The depth of the bass may drop off a little around this point also
Around 15-20 hours there will be a little confusion in the image - focus will drop off and instruments may appear further forward or back and some distortion may appear in the extreme upper end e.g. the violins upper register.
After around 18-24 hours that will settle down and the image will gain pinpoint precision both left to right and front to back
Between 30-40 hours the bass will develop into a fuller, deeper, more "rounded" sound, but will not lose it's detail and control - it just develops more 3D "flavour"
I now have about 60 hours on my Audio cables they are sounding superb.
The A/V cables are a little shorter so they may take less time to burn-in. I am not paying as much attention with them - certain things like the brittle sound is easily discernible, but the bass not so much because I have a sub on that system. Imaging is also not as noticeable unless I play my test tracks, but even so, the environment does not make it as easy to discern spacial correctness, so I don't bother.
Having said that, I did play music for around 4 hours yesterday on the A/V system and for the few moments I actually stopped to listen it was sounding extremely good :-)
The extended clarity you hear on the top-mid end is due to the silver plated conductor you are using. I don't think I will be trying the solid silver because it sounds pretty amazing as it is.
Your dynamic performance should also be much better e.g. the very crisp snap on percussion instruments...
- drums always have snap but instruments such as glockenspiels, triangles and bongos are so much more life like - on well recorded tracks you can actually hear the hammer strike the plates or the hand striking the skin.
Anyhow as far as ...
AND - YOU did all the work! LOL
Posting this stuff on my site has always been about helping others and hoping others would try new approaches and wire combinations based on my designs.
Keep the posts coming as you notice changes
And post your pics on the system page - If it's OK with you I will copy what you post and append the "Bad-Ass Speaker Helix" on my Helix Speaker page as an addendum
Just to confirm your construction method...
- SIGNAL WIRES:
- kinky signals from 12/14 gauge with counter rotating spirals made form silver plated wire
- NEUTRAL WIRES:
- counter rotating Helix neutrals
- WHAT WIRE TYPE AND GAUGE DID YOU USE ????
Cheers
RE:...
One thing that I keep thinking about in regards to the signal.. if it was one run of cable, wouldn’t the worries over noise be the same?Paragraph 1: Having two wires carrying different frequencies and current there raises the possibility the two signal wires would contaminate each other - this is not possible with a single cable.
Or would that not be an issue because it’s full signal, and the jumpers would only be susceptible to induction?
Paragraph 2: On my speakers the jumpers are totally separate pieces of wire, so induction is not possible- they are only 4" long.
Over the next few hours the brittleness should arrive and then abate after a couple of days.
The depth of the bass may drop off a little around this point also
Around 15-20 hours there will be a little confusion in the image - focus will drop off and instruments may appear further forward or back and some distortion may appear in the extreme upper end e.g. the violins upper register.
After around 18-24 hours that will settle down and the image will gain pinpoint precision both left to right and front to back
Between 30-40 hours the bass will develop into a fuller, deeper, more "rounded" sound, but will not lose it's detail and control - it just develops more 3D "flavour"
I now have about 60 hours on my Audio cables they are sounding superb.
The A/V cables are a little shorter so they may take less time to burn-in. I am not paying as much attention with them - certain things like the brittle sound is easily discernible, but the bass not so much because I have a sub on that system. Imaging is also not as noticeable unless I play my test tracks, but even so, the environment does not make it as easy to discern spacial correctness, so I don't bother.
Having said that, I did play music for around 4 hours yesterday on the A/V system and for the few moments I actually stopped to listen it was sounding extremely good :-)
The extended clarity you hear on the top-mid end is due to the silver plated conductor you are using. I don't think I will be trying the solid silver because it sounds pretty amazing as it is.
Your dynamic performance should also be much better e.g. the very crisp snap on percussion instruments...
- drums always have snap but instruments such as glockenspiels, triangles and bongos are so much more life like - on well recorded tracks you can actually hear the hammer strike the plates or the hand striking the skin.
Anyhow as far as ...
Help me build speaker cables please!I guess my job is done :-)
AND - YOU did all the work! LOL
Posting this stuff on my site has always been about helping others and hoping others would try new approaches and wire combinations based on my designs.
Keep the posts coming as you notice changes
And post your pics on the system page - If it's OK with you I will copy what you post and append the "Bad-Ass Speaker Helix" on my Helix Speaker page as an addendum
Just to confirm your construction method...
- SIGNAL WIRES:
- kinky signals from 12/14 gauge with counter rotating spirals made form silver plated wire
- NEUTRAL WIRES:
- counter rotating Helix neutrals
- WHAT WIRE TYPE AND GAUGE DID YOU USE ????
Cheers